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The Northeastern Crags
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Beanstalk Crack, The T 
Big Red Shoes T 
Bigfoot was Here T 
Br'er Rabbit T 
Chess With Justin T 
Encour du Bottom feeder T 
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 
Happy Camper T 
Jolly Green Giant, The T 
Mountain Minor T 
Pick a Card T 
Shapeshifter T 
Sojourn of Arjuna T 
Squeeze Box T 
Steady Yeti T 
Thin Slice T 
Wiessner Corner T 
Yeti Beats T 

Yeti Beats 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague, Amy Colburn - Sept 4, 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 27, 2015

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Yeti Beats - Chuck jamming the upper handcrack

Description 

This is a link up of Steady Yeti into the top of Mountain Minor that may be even better than the original routes. Beautiful finger and hand crack climbing up a vertical wall of peach colored granite.

Stick clip the bolt at the start of Steady Yeti by coming in a bit on the ledge from the base of Bigfoot. Figure out the tricky sequence to move past the bolt to gain a horizontal where you can place a .75 Camalot with a shoulder sling out left. Finger pad edges get you up to the start of the crack. Head up the crack to about half way up the wall to just before the main crack arches right, and break left on a good angling fingercrack that takes you to the left side of the face to join Mountain Minor. Once you get to a stance at a horizontal below the upper face, put a cam out far to the right (purple or grey Camalot?) The gear is better out there and any potential fall is cleaner. Your next pro is a slung flake, then you do a couple mildly spicey balancey moves before you can get in some good nuts and gain the sweet right angling hand crack that takes you to the top.

Location 

The Bigfoot area, on the sheer wall just left of the landmark sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Look for the high single bolt at the start.

Protection 

A 60m rope will just get you down, so knot the end. Stick clip the bolt as some of the holds getting to it are friable and the landing is very bad (good rock afterwords). Single rack of nuts and cams to #3, double of the green .75 Camalot. The route seems to eat offset nuts, including the bigger ones. Bring a few shoulder length slings. Two bolt anchor with rings


Photos of Yeti Beats Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top - making the finish dramatic
At the top - making the finish dramatic
Rock Climbing Photo: Yeti Beats - Phil entering the midsection. The lin...
Yeti Beats - Phil entering the midsection. The lin...

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By Rob Albert
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This is the best climb I have done at Green's so far. Mark, outstanding link up! No move harder than 10c or so, but it keeps coming at you. I would say in the 11s overall, but if you are a solid 10 leader, get on it! Probably G rated, since I brought lots of pieces, and managed to run out of gear! Amazing variety of moves; face, crimps, high steps, funky pulling, razor sharp jugs, and then hand jamming. Outstanding! Rack to #3, you may want doubles in #2 and #1 camalots.

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