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Don Juan Spire
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Yesterday's News Variation 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Keith, Greg "the child" Bimesteffer, May 1993
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Oct 7, 2007

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Matt on pitch 1. The belay ledge is up and to his...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1:
Starting on the south ridge, Scramble up easy rock aiming for a cleaner crack, climb the cleaner crack until you can step right onto a belay ledge with a bolted anchor 5.9, 120'.

Pitch 2:
Face climb straight left 20'+ to a crack (mind the rope drag). Climb up cracks to a small roof, climb up and left over the roof. Climb the offwidth to easier OW to a large ledge(possible belay or continue to the summit). From the ledge follow the crack angling up and left to the summit. Climb over the summit to the anchor. 5.10, 130'+.

Descent:
Rappel to the notch between the towers, and to the ground.

Location 

The route starts on the south ridge of Don Juan Spire.

Protection 

Standard rack with a few larger pieces.


Photos of Yesterday's News Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On top of Don Juan Spire
On top of Don Juan Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on top of Don Juan
Matt on top of Don Juan
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at pitch 2 from the summit.
Looking down at pitch 2 from the summit.

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