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Yellowknife Buttress

Routes Sorted
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Abbey Normal S 
Alaskan Arches S 
Arctic Circle S 
Aurora Borealis S 
Bering Strait S 
Bridge to Nowhere S 
Cannery Row S 
Chimney Sweeps T 
Cow Patty S 
Gifts From Attu S 
Juno S 
Lone Ranger T 
Lone Wolf T 
Mosquito S 
Nanook of the North S 
Old Yeller T 
Yellowknife S 
Yukon Cornelius S 

Yellowknife Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.80531, -71.84268 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,211
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 25, 2007
Forecast:
Today

34° | 28°
Wednesday

39° | 27°
Thursday

34° | 24°
Friday

28° | 13°
Saturday

22° | 11°
Sunday

26° | 20°
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BETA PHOTO: There have been a ton of changes here since the 20...

Description 

Yellowknife is an out of the way crag that sees so little traffic that the holds normally don't even have chalk on them. Wow, very un-Rumney-like.

All the routes here are between 5.10a and 5.11d. Some are very long by Rumney standards, requiring a two rope rappel, but most times a 60 meter rope will get you back to the ground. Another non-Rumney aspect of this cliff is that the majority of the climbing is less than vertical and more like what you might expect to find on the south buttress of Whitehorse, with crimpy technical face climbing. The front of the cliff is about dead vertical for the most part and is home to a couple killer 5.11s including Alaskan Arches(5.11d).along the gully to the right is the more slabby climbing with a few 10s and 11s.
Most areas at Rumney that have high concentration of 5.10s and 5.11s tend to be crowded, but if you want to escape the Rumney rat-race, spend a day this beautiful area, enjoying shade, quiet, perfect rock and long quality technical routes.

Getting There 

Follow directions to the Hinterlands and continue left under the gully and you will find it.Or follow directions to Prudential, and it's the next cliff right of that.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Yellowknife Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Yellowknife Buttress:
Cow Patty   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Juno   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Yellowknife   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 99'   
Abbey Normal   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Gifts From Attu   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Nanook of the North   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Alaskan Arches   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Arctic Circle   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Yellowknife Buttress

Featured Route For Yellowknife Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: This is me cleaning the line... Gives it scale for...

Bering Strait 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  NH : *Rumney : Yellowknife Buttress
Years ago I came very close to bolting a line on the face where Ward eventually added Arctic Circle. I wanted to climb up the vertical face and right through the roof above. Unfortunately the face below the roof was too soft and the crimps crumbled beneath my feet and I aborted the project. Flash forward, Ward adds Arctic Circle a bit left of my intended start but circumvented the roof with a travers back left at the top. So Bering Strait is a 2 bolt variation that let me bust through the tough ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Yellowknife Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Never seen one like this anywhere else...
Never seen one like this anywhere else...
Rock Climbing Photo: I might recommend not rapping off of this anchor I...
I might recommend not rapping off of this anchor I...
Rock Climbing Photo: the top of Yellowknife viewed from the top of Summ...
the top of Yellowknife viewed from the top of Summ...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down on the west side of yellow knife from...
looking down on the west side of yellow knife from...
Rock Climbing Photo: i looked at this sweet looking but very remote rou...
i looked at this sweet looking but very remote rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: There have been some new additions to the right en...
BETA PHOTO: There have been some new additions to the right en...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ernie Hansche (dad) on Cow Patty
Ernie Hansche (dad) on Cow Patty

Comments on Yellowknife Buttress Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 30, 2015
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 28, 2008
I've now climbed all of the routes at Yellowknife and I can say for sure that if you like technical face climbing in the 5.10-5.11 range you might want to make a trip out here...
By Will Cornell
May 27, 2014
this crag looks dope. I'm definitely going to have to check it out.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 6, 2014
This crag should see more action but I understand why people don't go.
Yellowknife needs a big revival. I mean a group effort that could transform this crag and bring climbers of the 5.10 - 5.11 level up higher and free up the lower crags.
Here is what would need to be done:
1-a good scrub of each route
2-replace some of the really rusted bolts
3-build a few platforms for belayers (maybe 3)
4-improve the connection trail from Prudential
5-make a big announcement of a big refresh
The trail from Northwest to Prudentiel is so nice that the walk from the parking lot is really not bad.
If some people ever want to join a group effort, let me know, I will come down from Montreal to help.
By S. Neoh
Oct 8, 2014
First, I have to admit I've not climbed the .11 routes here. I've only been on the .10 routes. They are all OK to quite good, though I thought after a couple, the moves became a little repetitive and I developed sore tips from small holds on mostly less-than-vertical rock. Length of the routes here is a definite plus but I would not go so far as to say "perfect rock", even when the routes are clean.
No question, YK a worthwhile destination!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 8, 2014
Soon, you have to go try Yukon Cornelius. Read Lee's description. It is so accurate to what you will experiment! It's a long one...
By S. Neoh
Oct 8, 2014
I dunno, Eric. Nanook and Alaskan Arches sound more appealing to me. :)
There is so much to do up in this neck of the woods. Just amazing.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 10, 2014
My 2 cents: I have climbed everything at Yellow Knife and added 3 routes of my own here... I really like the style of climbing up there, the low angle stuff, long routes and even some slightly inverted crimpy sections... It never made sense to me that there were crowds waiting in line at the hinterlands and there was literally NO ONE 2 minutes up the trail at this amazing crag... with a little trail work it could be very good, with a lot of trail work it could be great :)
By S. Neoh
Oct 10, 2014
When Jolt and Dolt were still "up", Hinterlands can be crazily busy. I went up there once after Jolt came down and we had everything but Giant Man to ourselves, on a nice weekend to boot! In fact, the Pru was busier. I bet YK was empty or practically empty that day.
By Zac.St.Jules
From: New Hampshire
Jul 11, 2015
Great crag but definitely needs some love. Most bolts need to be replaced- they're super rusty!
By Zac.St.Jules
From: New Hampshire
Jul 29, 2015
How would we go about organizing a work day up here?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 30, 2015
Usually replacing bolts is not an organised group activity, rather somebody with the skills and tools decides to pack up a big backpack and walks up there. It is kind of a one or two person job. If you see Chris, Dave, Ward or Pete of the RCA (the usual suspects doing it these days) ask what the best practices are now and if there is anything you can do to help. You can always pick a route you want to climb that is looking green and spend some time giving it a scrub.