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Cranberry Meadows
Routes Sorted
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Ballpark Boulder T,TR 
Definite Lee S 
Protect the Peelers S,TR 
Shark Fin T 
Uppity Buddha S,TR 
Yellow Brick Road S,TR 

Yellow Brick Road 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Greg Barrett and Josh Lightman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Josh30 on Sep 1, 2014  with updates from Greg Barrett

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Nick cruising the route.

Description 

A balancey start leads you up the initial slab. Cut hard left and work your way up fun broken blocks. Undercling a bulge and work right to use a rail above and mantle to the ledge. Get past the crux using a high right foot and search for the hidden right hand hold. Keep moving right and finish up on a nice ledge for clipping the anchors. Rappel and repeat. PS if preparing this route for top rope make sure to use directionals for the second to prevent a pendulum.

Location 

Just left of shark fin. Same wall.

Protection 

6 bolts, Fixed anchor at the top with rappel ring. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended. Look for the stick with tape on it.

The top anchor for this route is located a ways to the right of the beginning. This means that it requires some effort to clean the draws while on rappel. The simplest way is to have somebody clean them while seconding.

If you are top roping, it is suggested that you leave the second to last draw clipped. This while keep the climber from facing a swing during the first half of the climb.


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