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Yellow Brick Road 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Geoff Archer and Kai Buskirk, December 1989
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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"Yellow Brick Road". Photo by Blitzo.


A great face climb up the center of the wall with good rock and engaging moves. Protection is enough to call this a sport climb.

Originally rated 5.11a, some broken holds at the crux have bumped the grade up a few notches. The climbing tends to be more or less vertical with the crux involving thin edges and technical footwork.


8 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos of Yellow Brick Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Stoner on the sharp end. FA party on Yellow B...
Dave Stoner on the sharp end. FA party on Yellow B...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Yellow Brick Road". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Yellow Brick Road". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik Eriksson on "Yellow Brick Road". Ph...
Erik Eriksson on "Yellow Brick Road". Ph...

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By Murf
Nov 10, 2003

Worth noting that one of the bolts, I believe its the second, is missing the hanger. May be sporting a hitched nut.
By Vernon Stiefel
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I left a wired stopper with a locking biner on the hangerless bolt a couple of years ago but I have been told it is no longer there. This route would deserve more stars if the rock was better quality at the crux.
By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 10, 2003

I'll add a hanger next time I'm out there if needed. Agreed about the rock quality - that's one reason holds broke off at the crux.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 26, 2010

still missing the 2nd hanger. Sorry I didn't read this page before I hiked up or I would have replaced it. nut (for the bolt, not a wired nut) still on the stud and moves freely, so it should be fixable with just a hanger and a crescent wrench. Or, sling the stud with a wired nut.

Some of the route was really nice, but the snapped holds at the crux are quite obvious, a large amount of orange scars, really took away from the quality of the route.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jan 4, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Also worth noting that this feels hard for the grade, in addition to having to bust 5.10+ moves above the hangerless bolt. Aside from the direct start holds (you could also step off a boulder) nothing felt too loose. It might have all broken off by now...but it's definitely harder than 5.11a. Very technical and elaborate movement with a distinct crux section.

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