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Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBBR, full route) 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Logan Barber
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime except summer/monsoon season
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 23, 2016

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Oliver follows up the awesome link-up hybrid class...

Description 

This route begins with the short route sometimes referred to as Zhoulei's Flake (after the FA-ist; also referred to as "half" of YBBR).

Jam your way up an awkward right-facing flake to a nice stance beneath a small overlap. Bust out a few brief tugs and land yourself at the old chains on a big ledge. The crux follows the three bolts up and left.

Climb through some steep, thin face climbing along a rail to where the steep face meets the ramp of Highway to Hell. Fire the last few powerful moves to gain the ramp and follow the top half of Highway to Hell (fun and balance-y!) to where the ramp ends. Make an awesome exposed move across the gap to the chains shared with Screaming at the Moon.

You can opt to belay from the chains or lower and belay from the ground (70m rope recommended). Either way, your belayer/ will have to clean the route, since it wanders significantly from left to right.

Location 

Just left of Faraway Corner and Screaming at the Moon

Protection 

Gear from TCU/C3 #00- C4 #3, advisable to bring doubles of tips (#.2 X4 or 0 TCU) to wide fingers (#.5)


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