Process of Elimination
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Muel just starting his (successful) onsight attemp...
Start on sloping jugs under a sloping ledge, throw a high heel, lock off and use the crimps to gain the slopers on the ledge (1st crux), latch the crimp go up and right to a jug, then continue up the super pumpy flake to the top horn (2d crux) for a pumpy but easy anchor clip.
Right most route on the overhanging portion of this boulder.
3 bolts to anchors.
Up until recently these bolts regularly lost their hangers and nuts. Recently (August 2007) Jim Taylor replaced them with some glue-ins that may look weak(some say they look like paperclips or staples), but they are much, much stronger than the rock around them, and at least as strong as the previous bolts that were installed.
Muel chalking before finishing up the flake
By David Garancosky
From: State College, PA
Mar 7, 2017
so when did the name change from "Year of the Psycho Bitch"?
Mar 8, 2017
Lots of summersville route names got changed in the more recent guidebooks. Not sure if the FA had different names originally or if they were renamed.