REI Community
82 Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Reduction T 
Block Party T 
Crimp Chimp T 
Crème de la Choss S 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Quills  S 
Truffle Hog T 
War on Drugs T 
Year of the Dog T 

Year of the Dog 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Yet another fine pitch of climbing on the beautiful big wall section of the 82.

"Year of the Dog" used to be an alternate second pitch to "Crimp Chimp" but now has it's own first pitch. One of the best climbs in Bolton.

P1. Start a few yards right of Crimp Chimp on a 5.9 slab leading to fun face climbing and an anchor just right of Crimp Chimp.

P2. Excellent. Tricky balance and great crimps all the way to the top, ending in a broad corner just left of a steeper face.

Location 

20 feet right of "Crimp Chimp."

Protection 

Many QDs and a single rack (including some wires) to a #1 Camalot.


Comments on Year of the Dog Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Salter
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Excellent independent line. It actually has it's own first pitch, independent of Crimp Chimp:

Start 10 feet right of Crimp Chimp and follow mixed bolts and gear in a direct manner, past a flake and up a thin, steep slab. For a most excellent time, link the two pitches together into one exceptional 140 foot pitch to the top.

Rack: A handful of SLCD's from yellow TCU up to red Camelot, along with a few medium/large stoppers

Descent: 2 one rope rappels
By Derek Doucet
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Actually, like all of the main face routes, YOD is an excellent, long single pitch with a convenient mid point rap anchor to facilitate a single rope rap descent. Why break these routes in to two pitches? Just sayin'!
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jun 18, 2011

Matt, how difficult would you say the independent first pitch to this route is?
By Derek Doucet
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The climbing to reach the first anchors is .9+ish, and the crux is a one move wonder. The rest of the climbing is easier, but very worthwhile. There is a brief section of PG/PG13 5.7-5.8 climbing halfway to the midpoint rap anchor, by the way.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About