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a2. The Uberfall - right
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Yale 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
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Submitted By: dragons on Jun 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Bottom portion of "Yale". The large bloc...

Description 

Start on top of a car-sized block below an overhang, 20 ft left of Harvard. Climb up onto the overhang (crux?). For a short person (I'm 5'0"), it's awkward because there are no footholds, but the move is protectable. Diagonal up and right to the top of another large block. From here you will see a chockstone followed by a short crack system - go up here, and continue diagonaling right up several ramps to the top.

Note: the grey Dick Williams puts this at 40 ft, but it seemed more like 80 ft if you go all the way to the top.

Also: the overhanging chockstone seemed precarious, but I did pull myself up on it cautiously and it didn't budge. I checked it from above, and it seemed pretty solidly wedged. Be careful, though, things can change!

Location 

About 20 feet left of Harvard, there's a small-car-sized block sheltered by an overhang. "Yale" starts at the top left of this block. You can easily access it by climbing up from the ground on the right.

After topping out, if you walk off left, then you'll quickly find a trail that takes you to the Uberfall.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack, lots of opportunities for passive pro. There are several trees at the top that you can use for anchors.


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By Eric Lutz
Feb 22, 2016

Revisited this guy yesterday, still fun after 15 years, I wouldn't sweat the big banger of a cammed in blocked it's not going anywhere (yet!!)

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