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BETA PHOTO: Start of the route.
This is the first bolted line down the hill, left, from the small spray painted alcove (dates back to '79).
Pitch 1 - 5.10d. Start up the edge of the arete on easy terrain to a large granite stalagmite. Don't take the right bolted line (Recovery Wall #14). Stay on the left line, and climb the face of the stalagmite. Delicate, enjoyable climbing up patinas lead to the anchor. Three stars for the first pitch, 95 feet.
Pitch 2 - 5.10a. I personally don't recommend this pitch. Climb 15-20 feet from the anchor to the uncharacteristically high first bolt. A few more bolts leads to a small roof with questionable rock (sounded very hollow after the second bolt over the roof). Once past the roof, continue up chickenheads to the anchor, 95-100 feet.
Make 2 rappels to the ground. If you're using a 60m, tie knots in the end for the first rappel; there didn't seem to be much rope left with a 70m.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 26, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I have found the upper pitch well worth doing, not quite as good as P1, but the small bit of South Platte Kitty litter is easily passed with big positive holds.