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Y2K Crackdown 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Franziska and James Garrett, 31 December 1999
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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At the start.

Description 

An easy yet adventurous climb, Y2K Crackdown attacks an interesting line across four layers of rock. Each stratum is a little different, varying rock quality and features, each requiring a different set of techniques to ascend. Between layers, there are ample resting opportunities on ledge systems that collect rotten rock from above. It can be easy to run out your protection in these spots, so be careful not to slip on the loose debris. Chimneying and stemming are frequently used techniques, and jugs appear just as you think the climbing is getting tougher than the rating. A quick approach makes this a worthwhile warm up. This route is in the shade in the early afternoon; however, the belay up top is exposed.

Location 

About 40 meters to the north of the end of the cliff band, find a faint, left-facing dihedral. Above the dihedral is a deep groove that makes a large letter “V” in the horizon line. A bolted line resides just to the south of the route.

Protection 

Medium to large camming devices, helmets and long runners to alleviate rope drag as the route wanders between strata. Belay from the two-bolt anchor of the neighboring sport route. Walk off to the north end of the cliff band and down a grassy gully.


Photos of Y2K Crackdown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Green line does not appear on actual rock
BETA PHOTO: Green line does not appear on actual rock

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By James Garrett
Apr 12, 2007

Ryan,
Your route descriptions convince me you should write the second edition! Y2K CRACKDOWN, however, does not have the traverse as outlined in your photo. It pretty much goes straight up the whole way.
The route to the right which shares the same start and then follows a parallel crack system to the top through a steep bulge is A SHEEP AT THE WHEEL, 5.10a, trad. To the left of Y2K is A GOOD SHEPHERD BRINGS DESPERATE MEN, 5.9, trad, mixed gear with 4-5 bolts. SHEEP DIP, 5.9, with two bolts passed on the lower part and is about 25m to the right of Y2K. SHETLAND DREAMS, 5.7, mixed is to the north about in the middle between Y2K and A SHEEP IN A WOLF'S CLOTHING. All go to the top, all put up traditionally. I don't know how to attach topos to this web page, let me know if you need future beta. Sheep Rock remains the main moderate wall and has about 8-9 routes on it now.
You probably noticed alot more routes all over spread about. Almost double the amount of fun new stuff since the book. Wolfenstein area has many new great offerings. Nice to hear about people doing some of the routes...such a long and arduous approach from the boulders, afterall!!

By James Garrett
Apr 14, 2007

Hi Ryan,
Yea, no kidding, your route descriptions rock! The fixed line on Shadow Buttress is probably on Tim Kemple's route that he is establishing. I would love to learn more about it, but I hear it is 5.14 something. Wild line! He is the perfect guy for the task. A new era arrives at Ibex, very cool.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 15, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route involving some tough cranks over bulges with lots of stemming. Big holds but physical. Line goes straight up the most obvious crack system. Calling it a hand crack is a stretch. It's more of a chimney/offwidth in a lot of spots. The middle crux involves pulling over a chockstone formation or if you're really tiny, going behind it.

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