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Y Gully  

WI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 10 pitches, 2000', Grade IV
Original: WI3 Mod. Snow [details]
FA: Fred Bauer (1986)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,911
Submitted By: Stephen Scoff on Aug 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Marvin Dawson and Mike on the possible FA in Decem...

Description 

A monster line just South of Celo. A big day regardless of the conditions you find yourself in.

Location 

The huge route seen heading up 1157 towards the Woody Ridge trailhead (See Crescent).

It's best done in considerably snowy conditions to allow for super fun and exposed neve after the ice that avoids A LOT of shwacking.

Park at the Woody Ridge trailhead and begin ascending the logging roads as heading for Crescent. Break left after 15 or so minutes and begin working up Shuford Creek(see Google Maps). Ascend the creek and the mountain to the top of the ice soon after the crux pitch. Taking the right side of the "Y" in snowy conditions is probably the preferred finish.
Once on the ridge find the Black Mountain Crest trail. Head North on the Crest trail until you pick up the Woody Ridge Trail and then back to your vehicle.

Protection 

ice and slings for trees


Photos of Y Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike getting the climbing started!
Mike getting the climbing started!
Rock Climbing Photo: Soloing up BOL Man in really good conditions. Firs...
Soloing up BOL Man in really good conditions. Firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Y Gully
Y Gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the exposure!
Enjoying the exposure!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike and Marvin topping out the WI3 pitch.
Mike and Marvin topping out the WI3 pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the upper slopes
Looking down the upper slopes
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of the gully near the start of shwacking
The top of the gully near the start of shwacking
Rock Climbing Photo: The WI3 Section
The WI3 Section

Comments on Y Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By gregrockz
Jan 20, 2015

Anyone know what BOL stands for?
By Stephen Scoff
From: Columbia, South Carolina
Jan 21, 2015

Bed of Leaves

Mike forgot his sleeping bag the night before the FRA so he built a survival shelter out of a ton of leaves. :)
By Robert Branch
From: Burnsville, NC
Jan 23, 2015
rating: WI3 PG13

That feature is called the 'Y' gully. It got its first ascent in January 1986 by Fred Bauer, solo. Fred and I found the base of it after I moved to Spruce Pine in March 1984. Fred and I did a couple of pitches up it in December '84 but did not complete the route because of time. I tried soloing it a year later in late December but backed off after I hit a section of ice covered snow which was filled with water. I punctured the shell discharging the water. I was three pitches up. Fred had better conditions and I could not get off work.
By Brian Abram
From: Celo, NC
Feb 10, 2015
rating: WI3 Mod. Snow

This route is mostly rock hopping up the drainage until you hit 5k. From 5k to 6k is really nice, with a short section of WI3++ when we did it.

Rock Climbing Photo: y gully
y gully
By munkeybog
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 5, 2016
rating: WI3+ Mod. Snow

Hey. I took that photo.
Man, you look good. Almost like... like... like you're going to an Eastern European Disco.

It's a shame the ice was that fat and we didn't even pull the screws out.

Pushing to the crest after the snow gives out is a test of will and navigation through deadfall, rhodo, and icy weeds to your chest.
By Kyle Harris
From: Nashville TN
Nov 10, 2016

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