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Y-Crack Boulder
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Y Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pete Noebels, Dennis Abbink, Larry Treiber
Page Views: 2,033
Submitted By: Ryan Myers on Apr 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BURLY... good luck


Big gear if youre going to try and lead it... best to climb Turtles Piss on the backside and top-rope Y crack

Photos of Y Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Y Crack
Y Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Thrutching up Y Crack, R side in
Thrutching up Y Crack, R side in
Rock Climbing Photo: Thrutching up Y Crack, L side in
Thrutching up Y Crack, L side in

Comments on Y Crack Add Comment
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By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 21, 2009

What is the gear beta? Can you get away with a coupla #5 C4s, or is a #6 strictly necessary? I guess I could always do the honorable thing and just attempt it with what I have.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Finally led this thing yesterday, and felt like throwing up at the top. Feels like the definition of 5.9+

I used a #3 big bro at the bottom (not really necessary) and then pushed an old #5 camalot (green) through the wide section until I could get a new #5 (purple) in. I think I used a .75, 2, and 3 for the top section.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Being the follower on Roman's lead, can safely say "better him than me!" Yuck, and it was the second time we'd both climbed that awful crack. Must there be a third? Hell no, and I don't think I'll ever feel like leading it. Roman used a big bro down low, walked a #5, and then #4 with a couple #3's and maybe a smaller one tucked away up top. Hated trying to clean while also trying to stay in the grungy crack.
By Sagar Gondalia
From: Golden
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

1 x #2, #3 big bros, and a #5 should protect it to where it thins out for a standard rack. Finished left.

The majority of the climb is actually a lieback on a flake. The flake disappears for 6'ish feet in the middle and it's stiff 10 offwidth. Getting in and coming out of the OW sections are the crux. I climbed it right side in and it was tough. My partner couldn't get up it, and went left side in to much more success.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Big bros? It would be a lot easier to just slide a #6 with you for the first 15 feet before leaving it and placing a #5.
By Tradiban
Jan 15, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just TR this thing and enjoy a great lieback. You need some long webbing or cord to set it up. I attempted to solo up to the #5 C4 placement but wigged out on some crumbly rock and decided to downclimb. To place a #6 before the crux I think it would have to get pretty deep meaning a very awkward move to get into it.
By KevinD Donahoe
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 26, 2014

Sandbag! Finally got up this climb with two #6's which worked out great. You could do one #6 and easily walk it too. No big bro's necessary.

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