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The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
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Xyphoid Left 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Herbst?
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 814
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Feb 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route climbs the left facing corner to the left of the OW roof crack of Xyphoid Fever.

Begin as for Xyphoid Fever up blocky terrain onto a ledge. From here climb straight up via good jams. Be careful of some loose blocks down low. Follow this to the roof. At the roof cut around the left side and into the left facing corner and crack. Good jams will bring you to the top of the corner where some funky maneuvering and face holds will see you out of the corner and up. A large block just below a wide flare is slung with a rap ring on it- anchor here or climb up further to another bolt and fixed nut anchor.

To descend, rappel the route.


Standard Rack

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By smassey
From: CO
Feb 27, 2012

Forgot your five in the car, eh??
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 27, 2012

Ha, nah, my client didn't want to do the OW. This does make a really good 5.9 though if you do forget the 5 though.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 4, 2014

No fixed nut on the top anchor. Replaced the old webbing with fresh cord around the block, plus a screw link. Removed the old webbing from the slung-block midway station. The rap from the top anchor is a full 30 meters -- watch the rope ends.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Apr 25, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

What a gem! I think it's one of the best pitches of its grade at Red Rocks.

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