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Xin Jiang Black 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P1: Ken & Karen McMahon 1998 P2: Paul Collis, Alex Xi Tang 2003
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 16, 2010

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Description 

Another fun, challenging route at Twin Gate. A few hard sections keep you on your toes the entire route, though there are several good rests along the way. The beginning has an out-of-character hard overhanging start: many folks bypass this with an easier (though still exciting) traverse in from the left.

Pitch two is rarely done, though I understand the climbing is good. Please be aware of loose rock, as stuff consistently seems to come down from the upper pitches on Twin Gate, and likely will continue to do so until they clean up a bit more.

Location 

2nd from the farthest right, on Twin Gates main face. The start is an awkward, strenuous overhanging bit OR just climb the easier start about 10 feet left and traverse over. Nice to have a good spotter here.

Protection 

Bolts to fixed anchors, rappel descent. First pitch is easy to T.R.


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