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Xeno Dance S 

Xeno Dance 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wolfe/Vasquez
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,543
Submitted By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Some fancy footwork while working the Xenoliths on...

Description 

Route just to the right of Route#3. A fun wandering route that follows varied natural features. Starts up a right-leaning crack then traverses left across the face to the top. Crux is sidestepping left across a series of xenoliths (pebbles) to get to the left-hand crack.

Location 

Route in between route #3 and #4.

Protection 

Draws. A couple of longer runners will reduce rope drag on the traverse. Chain anchors. Rap, lower or walk off.


Photos of Xeno Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony starting up "Xeno Dance."
Tony starting up "Xeno Dance."
Rock Climbing Photo: Hunting for Xenos.
Hunting for Xenos.

Comments on Xeno Dance Add Comment
Show which comments
By JeffMK
Jul 3, 2011

Pretty cool... there are 2 old pitons hammered in on this route about 3/4 way up.
By Maidy
Apr 8, 2012

Actually the "old" pitons were new pitons - which we have now been replaced with a single bolt in a better position.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I like this climb and would happily repeat it.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Rock Climbing Photo: This cluster of Xenoliths looks securely bonded to...
This cluster of Xenoliths looks securely bonded to the surrounding sandstone matrix.
By Jason Schliekelman
From: Woodland Hills Ca
Feb 3, 2017

we did a super fun variation linking the two crux sections of Xeno Dance and then finished by working right onto the upper section of Proud Mary. makes for a good heady climb.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
May 12, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Placing a quickdraw on the left bolt at the anchor and traversing left to the anchor on Route #3 keeps the rope from running into the crack below the "Xeno Dance" anchor.

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