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Xcess 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 26, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Xcess runs up the left side of the (right hand fac...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An outstanding route that has a good mix of climbing and rock type. The start is the same for X and Xtension, sharing the first bolt. Continue up and left over some chossy rock to reach a stance to clip the next bolt. Above the 3rd bolt comes the first crux where you do some bouldery moves to gain the flake system. Follow the flake system as it diminishes to the next crux on crimps that put you on the left side of the X face. Climb to the first overhang and pull a possible redpoint crux. Continue up to the next roof, pull it on great jugs, get a stance and clip the chains. The rock character changes dramatically when you reach the overhangs, very unusual texture and formation for AF up there.

Location 

Shares the start with X and Xtension. On the left edge of this area.

Protection 

bolts, shuts.


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By tenesmus
Mar 26, 2014

This is a nice route to work for breaking into the grade. First crux teaches you to hike your feet and lean into your hands. The second is techie and if you boulder goes quick. The third and fourth really are endurancey redpoint cruxes.

Warm up on those weird routes right after you cross the creek because the .11's at this crag are unpleasant.
By D.A.
From: Grantsville,UT
Mar 6, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The first big roof has some dangerous choss at the key rest. The big under clings are quite loose. I will reinforce with glue, but for now, be careful. I have avoided this climb up until now because of its chossy appeal. After climbing it I have a different opinion. It had great movement. After dangers are minimized and rusty bolts are removed, this will get a lot more traffic. It's a great route.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 11, 2016

The choss was dangerous! We ripped off an encyclopedia(umm...5 ipads stacked upon each other) sized block that would have landed right on the belay area...scary! It seems sane now. The bolts on the upper half are terrible... I truly think this route should be avoided until they are replaced with stainless. 12b power and 12b endurance on this one and one of the harder 12b's in the canyon.

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