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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A3+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 900', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A3+ [details]
FA: Calder Stratford
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: mbarley on Jan 29, 2014

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


amost all the way back the canyon


2/3 of the way back the canyon


hooks, beaks and #2 cams

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By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2014

I've talked to Calder about this line and it's supposed to be awesome clean corners all the way to the top, no loose, groveling pitches. However, the first pitch is 80 feet or so of just hooking with no bolts.
By mbarley
Jun 9, 2014

Yep that is it.
There is a ton great free climbing on it, and no loose blocks or grovel pitches.
By David Deville
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 21, 2017

It's sort of hard to believe this route exists... The description makes it sound like ~800 ft of slammin' hands after the initial terror hooking. Are there unicorns that live on top of this as well? If it does exist is there any way to bypass the A3+ pitch? Ever since I saw this on MP I've asked everyone I know if they can lead A3+ and so far nobody has said they would. I have to admit that I wish the first pitch was a bolt ladder even though I know that would be a mistake. Oh well... would love to see some pictures of this thing.
By Bill Mustard
From: Silt, Colorado
Jun 6, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3+ X

dude can we add like 2 rivets? tried the route last week and my pangus crawled back into my stomach.

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