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Book of Condolences
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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 1,542
Submitted By: Todd Green on Apr 4, 2014

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Jon Vickers staying tight to make the last clip be...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start with some easy scrambling (protected by a bolt) to a ledge from which you can clip the first two bolts. Work up into the dihedral and you'll quickly find the first crux. Pull a few more hard moves and you'll get a nice jug to gather yourself for the second crux on smaller crimps as you start to trend right to the final rest about halfway through the traverse. Get your heart rate down for the final exciting moves to the chains. As the guidebook puts it: "We're desperate, get used to it." - X lyric.

Bulletproof rock and not nearly as polished as some of the other more popular 13's in AF.

Location 

See directions for getting to The Red Corners. The route starts in the left facing dihedral, pulls onto the arete and then traverses to the right to share anchors with The Book of Condolences.

Protection 

10 bolts + chains


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Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Jonathan Vickers
Photo by Jonathan Vickers

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