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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Three Lane Highway T 
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Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Matt Samet, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Dec 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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  • Description 

    Climb straight up the middle of the face over a bulge past two cracks and continue on positive, incut flakes to a ledge and a tree belay with slings. The rock quality improves, the difficulty increases, and the gear becomes more sparse as you ascend the face. There is sufficient protection to be found, probably only jalepeño spicy. This route was led ground up 12/1/07.

    I guess we've got a 4 star system here, so I'm thinking two stars. We both thought it one of three stars, probably two of three with some traffic. This S.facing route makes a good winter warm up.

    We *believe* this to be the first lead of this line after discussion with local authorities, but of course, you just never know, especially with the moderate grade and relatively obvious line.


    This route begins in a small alcove just above the trail down and around the corner R. of Positively 4th St. and climbs the vertical face just L. of the large, R.-facing dihedral of Working Class Hero. This southerly exposed face is quite distinctive from the trail just below and approaching Pos.4th St. with 2 cracks forming an X across it at mid height. Rap off the tree with slings to the ground.


    Standard Eldo rack with an long sling for a horizontal flake to protect the final moves.

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    By Brad Durbin
    Jan 21, 2008

    Nice addition Wayne. One might think that after leading or TR'ing this line that it could warrant a 10-, however, after doing many of the other lines in this area including Air Mail, it probably should only be a 9+. Plenty of gear until the final moves. Be prepared to sling the flake about 3/4 of the way up. Gets sun first thing so a good warmup on cold days. Two stars. Fun, vertical climbing.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jan 25, 2015
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    ^^^ Airmail has always been a sandbag. I think this deserves 5.10.
    This is true, at least, if following the arete the whole way and always within an arm's reach of it or holding it.
    Best way to do it is probably as a single pitch from the ground on Coniferous Types and continuing... always right of the arete, always within reach.

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