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X-tra Marital Sex T 

X-tra Marital Sex 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Mike K. & Mark G.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Mike on May 21, 2008

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Mike on Xtra Marital Sex, Premarital starts atop t...

Description 

This is a direct start to Pre-Marital Sex. It is an OK start to a nice climb.

Follow double seams and slopey edges past a bolt to a short slot (#1 Camalot) then up and right to another short crack (maybe a #2?) then either straight up through choss or up left through a crack in the limestone band to the start of Pre-Marital sex.

This route has been top-roped but has yet to see a FA.

Protection 

A couple hand sized pieces and a bolt will get you to Pre-Marital Sex.


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By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
May 21, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Dicey! Xtra Marital is a slipery slope....
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Tyler and I did this on 3/28/10 thinking it was 10b. Quite a surprise! We probably spent as much time clearing caked mud off holds as we did climbing. Very off-balance and committing, though well protected. The grade is probably height-dependent. Similar to the first pitch of the Windows Route, but much harder.
By TylerW Williams
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I led this on 3/28 and then Roman led premarital sex. We thought it was the same route, but just a little sandbagged for 10b. It would get more stars but it is a little dirty. It would seem to be pretty height dependent - potentially much harder if you're under 6'1" or so. If taller than that then I wouldn't rate it harder than devious 5.10. if you are 6' or under I could imagine it might be more like mid 11. Definitely worth a shot if you're doing premarital sex. Three stars (as the route cleans up?) if combining with premarital sex.

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