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X-Rated Tits T 

X-Rated Tits 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matt Cox, Randy Vogel and Shawn Curtis, 1976
Page Views: 1,881
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: "X-Rated Tits". Photo by Blitzo.

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Description 

In the center of the wall is a prominent roof that lies low on the formation. This climb starts just right of where the roof ends at a right-slanting groove.

Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.

If climbing with a 50 meter rope be careful as the distance to the ground is about 85'. Another memorable climb with a very memorable name.

EDIT: As one might guess, there is a story behind the name... The summer before this route was established, Matt Cox (then about 15 or 16 years old) had gone with a few other climbers to the small local movie theater (the "Rustic Theater") in Idyllwild on for a bit of Saturday night diversion. The movie was rated "R" and had a scene in it where a woman's breasts were shown. Matt, overcome by the sight, exclaimed in quite a loud voice "Wow! Those are the first R rated tits I've ever seen." The audience laughed, as did local climbers for weeks afterwards. The route name was a small tribute to a humorous moment. -Randy

Protection 

2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap


Photos of X-Rated Tits Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the two bolts starting X-Rated Tits
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the two bolts starting X-Rated Tits
Rock Climbing Photo: X-Rated Tits
X-Rated Tits

Comments on X-Rated Tits Add Comment
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By Randy
Feb 6, 2003

Did this recently again and not a bad climb. 2 of 5 stars.
By Woody Stark
Jun 12, 2003

Ladies that I know have a firm opinion on this route(not what you might think). There is an inverse relationship between height and rating here. If I was an inch shorter, this sucker would be a 10B. Ergo, as I'm getting older and shorter, I dread climbing this route.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 21, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun lead. Protects well. Easy 5.9....
By Karen
From: Prescott
Jan 22, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Well, this is the rating I would give this climb. It is definately not easy if you are under 5'4. In order to pull off the crux, I had to go out on thin face and do some very delicate moves. I did not like this climb.
By gnat
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

if you are taller than 6'4" or so, the route is significantly easier and thus: so high of quality that it deserves 5 of 5 stars.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 2, 2007

And for so many of us who are 7'0" or over, its even easier.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Old Vogel guide indicates only 1 bolt. There are actually two then the anchors that share with "Eye for an eye, route for a route". Start of route can be protected easily with a 3.5" cam 1.5" cam, or stoppers a bit further up until you reach the first bolt. Getting past the 2nd bolt seemed a bit reachy for me and definitely required me to use my feet to gain the height.

I went slightly left towards the tooth and wish I had a 1" cam because I'm puss. Not like the fall was far as the last bolt was all of 3 1/2 feet below, going for the anchors is easy ground run out but who cares. Russ went slightly left and straight up over the "roof" and made it look easy. If you were to do it that way and wanted pro, bring a 2" cam to protect the slot. Again, the last bolt is close...not like you're going anywhere.

Full sun in the winter makes for a nice afternoon destination.

My ego is keeping the rating as 5.9 but I agree with Locker...kinda easy for the grade
By ssp
Oct 25, 2011

Climbed this one bout 20 yrs ago and the first bolt looked like the original : Half hangin out, rusty spinner hanger.
A little gripped when I got to it since I had said " I'll just run it up to that bolt should be fine"
Wonder if it ever got replaced ????

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