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Redgarden Wall
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X-Man T 

X-Man 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Miller & Crispell, mid 1990s?
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Apr 30, 2012

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Description 

Pitch 1 (90 feet): Crux pitch. Climb up then trend left and later right to a comfortable belay ledge with bolted anchor and chains. Check out the cool eagle's nest to the right.

Pitch 2 (70 feet): Again climb up then trend left and later right to the bolted anchor and chains.

Location 

The route follows the central weakness in the cliff. Rap the route with a single 60m.

Protection 

A standard trad rack with pieces up to 2 1/2 inches. Bring an adequate number of 24" runners. There are two bolts on the first pitch and belay/rap anchors at the top of each pitch.


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By Karl Kiser
Apr 30, 2012

This is adventure bush climbing with great views. There are few people in the area. The climb hasn't been climbed many times and there is some looser rock. The climb was originally an R but an additional bolt (with permission of FAs) on the first pitch makes the protection a bit safer (do not pass up protection placements).
By Burnett
Oct 14, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

In November '14 Jake and I managed the route in good form. On the second pitch, about 10' above the anchors, there is a loose ledge/block. It groaned when I pulled on it. To the left below X-Man is a large block leaning against the face, the start of Recon - 5.6, 180' in two pitches. To the right of X-Man is an obvious project line, 5.12?. Then another 30 foot right is Chutes and Ladders - 5.7, 150'. Start at an obvious 70' layback crack covered in lichen to a cave and two exit cracks. Lots of new route potential on Redgarden Wall. See the photo of Redgarden wall for more complete route descriptions.
By Burnett
Mar 14, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

If you use X Man as a rap route with a single 60 meter rope, recommended, be sure to lay your rope toward the right on the first rap to insure you spot the next rappel station. The bolts are hard to see and partially hidden below a bulge and it would be easy to miss them and rap off the rope. Other cool trad routes exist left and right of X Man. Route descriptions can be found in the caption to the photo of Redgarden Wall.