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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X [details]
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: S Tart on Dec 6, 2014

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This is a straight up X route. There's only a few feet of climbing during the first 50' where falling might be ok. It's a shame this line is not protectable because it would be very popular otherwise.
Of course on traditional routes, the gear has to be placed on lead. Well the first piece of protection on X-Games, if so chosen, is a tree limb just close enough to the cliff to be able to throw a 48" runner at it. It's not an easy piece to get but hanging off an overhung face with one arm and trying to lasso a tree limb before pumping out over a boulder infested grounder does promote tremendous staying power.

Start walking up the rock ramp as if to climb Nut Sweat. Before you get to the Nut Sweat crack system move left, underneath and through the left side of multiple polished bulges. Gain a flat single hand hold just above the tree limb's level and start the clock; you've only got about 3 trys. Thin moves lead to the next good stance and your first piece of 'will probably hold' gear. Pull through the next overhung face to some small pieces up high and a good place to turn the corner onto Nut Sweat. Finish out on the second half of Nut Sweat.


Left of Nut Sweat.


48' runner and a couple small pieces for the first 50' and a standard rack for Nut Sweat.

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