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Point 11440, East Buttress
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Wyoming State Bird T 

Wyoming State Bird 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1200', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Ben Rosenburg, Ben Collett, July 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jul 21, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The first 5 pitches of the route

Description 

This route was shockingly sustained and mostly fairly memorable.

1) Follow the handcrack in the corner until it exits onto a ledge on the right. Belay here. 5.10 90ft.

2) Step right and follow the dihedral for about 100ft to a comfy ledge and good belay below where the dihedral steepens. 5.6. It may make sense to combine 1 and 2.

3) Follow the dihedral as it steepens, then do a cruxy step right as the dihedral disappears to a belay at a good spike. 100ft. 5.10+

4) Continue above through a tricky groove until it ends. Step up into a left facing corner and follow the corner and face to its left exiting onto a good ledge. 5.10-R.

5) Continue up about 20ft to a ledge on the right. Traverse this ledge for about 80ft until below a shallow dihedral. 5.7.

6) Climb the shallow dihedral until it ends. Continue straight up for about 30 feet to a sloping ledge below a flake and corner system. 5.9 170ft.

7) Pull into the corner system. Follow it until a roof is encountered, then step right to a sloping ledge. 5.10 160ft

8) Step right and follow ever easier terrain to the summit. 5.6.

Location 

This route starts around 300 feet right of Symbiosis in a shallow steep dihedral with a handcrack in the back.

Protection 

Double set of cams from small to #3 camalot and one number 4 should be sufficient.


Photos of Wyoming State Bird Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of pitch 7
The start of pitch 7
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1

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