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Dr. Death, Littleland and Environs
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Wu-Tang S 

Wu-Tang 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Scully
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on May 19, 2013

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Description 

The start may be the hardest move on the route, especially if you are short. Reach (or jump?) to the obvious, high starting rail and start up the vertical face. A few moves on the face lead to the beautiful arete. Follow this past several bolts to the 2 cold shut anchor below the lip.

The arete contains some of the most technical climbing I've ever done. There are several heel hooks and even a knee scum possible. Expect to use both sides of the arete. The line would merit more stars if it were longer or the rock less gritty.

Location 

Wu-Tang is located on the backside (uphill side) of Littleland. Two bolted lines head up the aretes of the attached spire with the boiler plate feature on the downhill side. Wu-Tang is the left line while facing the climbs (the right arete is Kokopelli 5.11).

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (cold shuts, not chains).


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