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Ellingwood Point
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Wrong Peak T 

Wrong Peak 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: David Stillman and Don Morris (2013)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Don Morris on Sep 8, 2014

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David Stillman at the grassy ledge; the end of the...

Description 

This route was done by accident. We were so enamored with the face above us, our minds playing mind games, agreed this was Blanca's Northeast Face. We thought Ormes Buttress would be too easy, and "Hey!, let's try to go straight up". We did not realize we were on the wrong mountain, until we got weary of the climb, cut left, turned the corner on the ridge, and with gaping mouths looked South exclaiming, "This isn't Blanca, it's over there!"

If you want to try this "chossy" climb with some stout 5.9 and "hairy" protection placements, start just left of center of the face on a black, right-arcing roof that will open to vertical climbing. Continue straight up to a slight ledge with moderate protection. Do the same for pitch 2. From pitch 3, climb up to the angled gash that rises to the south. For pitch 4, climb in the gash upward and South a full pitch until you find a suitable belay stance. On pitch 5, climb straight up. Close to the end of the pitch, a roof (crux) will need to be mantled. Decide your destiny. Belay below if you can find suitable protection, or mount and pray that your rope will get to a nice grassy ledge to the left. If you do not reach the ledge, you will end up placing suspect protection, and telling your partner not to fall. Trust our experience on this. Rest on the grassy ledge, enjoy the view, and thank God you did not die. Pitch 6 continue climbing up, and when you see the slot to the left exit.

Location 

The descent is from the top of Ellingwood Point via the North Ridge (5.0). At the lowest point of the ridge (saddle), look for your rappel on its East side.

Protection 

Prayer and a full quiver.


Photos of Wrong Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wrong Peak with pitches marked.
BETA PHOTO: Wrong Peak with pitches marked.
Rock Climbing Photo: Exit of technical portion of climb (ridge slot).
BETA PHOTO: Exit of technical portion of climb (ridge slot).
Rock Climbing Photo: David on top of Ellingwood Point.
David on top of Ellingwood Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: Don at the top of Ellingwood Point.
Don at the top of Ellingwood Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ellingwood North Ridge descent.
BETA PHOTO: Ellingwood North Ridge descent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lily Lake Trail farthest point West.
BETA PHOTO: Lily Lake Trail farthest point West.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay ledge for pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: Belay ledge for pitch 6.

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