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YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1990
Page Views: 4,901
Submitted By: Ryan Johnson on Jun 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Possibly the most sustained route near its grade at the crag. This route has it all... crimps, lockoffs, jugs, kneebars (can you find them?) pockets. So much varied climbing makes this a worthwhile project...


White Wall section.


8 bolts

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By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 22, 2008

Good route, but only after the first few bolts. I was scared for my life going to the second. I felt like it was dangerous. Once the steep climbing starts at the third, the bolts get closer together and the climbing gets fun.
By Blake Cash
From: Chattanooga, TN
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Agreed. Should have another bolt in between the 1st and 2nd. After you clip the 3rd bolt it's really enjoyable with a way better bolting job.
By Phil York
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Its been a long time since I've been on this route, but if I remember correctly you can get some small gear to help protect the early parts of the route.
By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This is probably the smoothest line I have ever climbed. Every move is fun and interesting.

While another bolt might inspire more confidence, anyone taller than 5'6'' (not me!) can clip the first bolt from standing on an easy ledge. The move to get to the bolt if you are shorter is a little scary but not bad. I didn't find it all that scary to get to the second bolt either, as there are a lot of confidence inspiring foot-holds. And I'm a scared climber. Maybe they have changed the bolt locations.

BETA SPOILER: I actually think for a short person (<5'3''), the hardest/,most move is at the first bolt (assuming you do the direct start--I hear you can start way left). After that, the next hardest move is at the second bolt, and if you get those, it's just a pump fest til the end. The red point crux is near the top, and contains a lot of really interesting movement--both to get into the dihedral, and to get out.
By zachj Farris
May 13, 2017

Agreed that the bolt placement makes it appear (from the ground) like sketchy climbing; however, once on the route it isn't that bad. Between bolt 1 and 2 there is only one slightly hard move and it is directly above bolt 1 so a fall here is well protected. Everything else getting to bolt 2 is great holds and feet. Getting up to and in position to clip bolt 2 is not bad at all. Don't let the view from the ground scare you.
The holds and the overall climbing are not particularly difficult. The endurance and pump factor is what earns the grade. I found the crux to be moving past the second bolt to get below the small roof. The tiny (absence of) feet made that sequence really challenging. However, given the length of the climb, the absence of a definitive "crux move", and the diversity of holds/moves I imagine everyone will have a different "crux" section of the climb. Great climb overall. One of the best at Fosters and worth doing.

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