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Wrist Ranger 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scarpelli and Piana, '89
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Aug 27, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Deanna finishing up the Ranger.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Wrist Ranger is a crack worth walking for. The crack splits a short face intersecting a dike and another crack along the way. WR is located on the lower right (SE) face of Spelunk Spire formation (away from the spire). Climb the crack, at around 3-4 inches most of the way with a few smaller constrictions. With my non-Scarpellian sized hands this was mostly a rattly fist crack - not a handcrack as called by some literature on the subject. Great rock. When you hit the top of the crack and the arete, set some bomber pro (1.5-2 inches) for your second and run it out up the easy slab to a tree atop the formation. Scramble off to the right side of the cliff, veer a little left for the easiest decent. This is a good line, but beware to those climbers breaking into the grade I'd recommend bringing several #4 and #3 Camalots.


Gear to 4 inches.

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By Jeremy Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 17, 2007

There are now anchors at the top of the crack (before the runout slab). Thanks to whoever put those in!
By Elijah Flenner
Aug 16, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I found the crack more like fists to off fists. I had a hard time finding solid fist jams up near the top, but there is enough good feet that they were not needed.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Aug 31, 2012

Agreed, mostly a fist crack with a couple offwidth-type moves. Great climb!

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