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Wrist Never Sleeps 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Strappo and friends
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Jan 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The upper part of Wrist Never Sleeps as I remember...

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Wrist Never Sleeps is a steep face climb on a pill-shaped rock between Block Tower and Poe Buttress. Climb up a vertical face on painfully sharp crimps, pass 6 bolts, then traverse left to lower angle rock and up past two more bolts. Don't forget to bring some small cams to partially protect the upper run out 5.10 slab and to build an anchor at the top.


Between Poe Buttress and Block Tower. The fastest descent is North towards the Poe Buttress and back down the gully. It is also easy to traverse to the south and climb the crux pitch of Mr. Mantle.


Quick draws and small cams.

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By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 4, 2010

The difficulty of this climb is a direct correlation to your pain tolerance. It is easier to start to the right near the crack and traverse left then climb up to the first bolt, but it is still sketchy. Don't forget some gear (as I did) or you will be looking at making 5.9+ moves about 50 feet out from your last bolt and giving a body belay up top.

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