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Wright Peak

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Hole, Lizard Head Variation, The T 
Ranger Danger T 
Wright Crack, The T 
Wright Wrong Chimney, The T 

Wright Peak Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.15174, -73.97953 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M LaViolette Jr. on May 29, 2012
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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As seen from the summit slabs of Wright Peak. Nye ...


Does lugging gear 2 hours up a mountain to climb 5.6 half pitches sound like your idea of fun? If so then Wright Peak is just the place you've been looking for. Fortunately there is an officially designated wilderness campsite with room for several tents about .5 mile from the crag. The best idea would probably be to pack some camping gear and some extra PBR's and head on up in the late morning, set up camp and then do some climbing in the evening.

Although only about 40 to 50 feet high and maybe 150 feet in length the climbs here are quality routes in a great setting. The whole length of the crag is a latticework of cracks, so much so that without a topo it is a little hard to tell which route is which and where exactly they go. The most prominent landmark on the crag is the left angling chimney at about the middle point which is the route The Wright Wrong Chimney. Fifteen feet or so to the right of that is a large white spot about ten feet up with a shallow right facing corner to it's left and a similar left facing corner on it's right. Straight above this at the top of the cliff is an overhanging triangular block, these mark the start of a few routes including The Hole. To descend walk off to the climber's right and scramble down a 3rd class gully back down to the base.

The crag is located at around 3800' and the top is a wide open, flat expanse of rock without any trees and has an alpine feel to it which offers great views of all the surrounding mountains. All anchors must be built with gear and climbers should do their best to trample the alpine vegetation atop the cliff as little as possible.

The cliff faces SE and absolutely bakes in the sun all day until late afternoon with little or no shade to be found. Don't forget your sunblock and your Julbos. If you are staying at the campsite and you have one of those handy tents that you can set up just the rain fly with a groundcloth it might be a good idea to take that too and set up a little sun shelter to chill out in between climbs.

Check out Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas' guidebook Adirondack Rock and their website for more information and a list of additional routes.

Getting There 

To get there go to the Adirondack Loj and start hiking towards Marcy Dam. After about 10 easy minutes you will come to a fork in the trail and a trail marker. The trail to the dam will head off left and the trail to Wright Peak and Algonquin will head straight, go straight. Continue along this trail for approximately an hour and you will notice the camping area on the left with a little water fall just beyond. From here it is about a half mile of rough terrain until you reach an obvious side path on the right just before the main hiking trail comes to a steep section. Head down the right side path about 10 feet and look off to your right and you will see the crag.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wright Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wright Peak:
The Hole, Lizard Head Variation   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wright Peak

Featured Route For Wright Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: The Hole and Lizard Head Variation.  The Hole (5.8...

The Hole, Lizard Head Variation 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Wright Peak
Start up the right facing corner or the face left of the white spot to a horizontal crack just below a bulge. Pull up onto the bulge to a good stance and then move slighty left to a vertical crack which takes you to a leftward rising diagonal. Continue straight up from here to another prominent horizontal. Two feet above this is "the hole". From here traverse the horizontal leftwards for a few moves to a good stance below a vertical crack which will take you up to a shelf on the left of the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Wright Peak Slideshow Add Photo
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Comments on Wright Peak Add Comment
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By Jim Lawyer
May 31, 2012
I really like this cliff. What it lacks in height, it makes up for in quantity -- lots of routes that are all pretty good quality, excellent rock, good protection, and all packed into a small, alpine area with a pretty summit.

Oh yeah, and they're not all 5.6...the routes range from 5.3 to 5.11b.
By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
May 31, 2012
Do you know the FA's on these routes Jim?
By Jim Lawyer
Jun 1, 2012
Regarding the FAs: The guidebook has details of 5 routes. The remaining routes were reported by Ken Nichols and his various partners.
By Gunkiemike
Sep 4, 2012
Members of the Clarkson Outing Club climbed there a fair bit back in the late 70's. No specific FA data from that era...sorry. I don't think we did anything harder than 5.7 though.

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