|Original:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||tim naylor on Aug 24, 2007|
|Comments on Wrendevous||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Mike Howard
Nov 7, 2008
"the best 5.11 trad-cragging pitch in the Southwest? It's gotta be one of them."
Matt Samet: editor in chief, Climbing Magazine
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Mar 23, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Super fun! We did the bolted variation to the start, which looked cleaner/more aesthetic than the original version. In fact, when I climbed it, I assumed that the "bolted variation" was the standard way to go! I guess it doesn't really matter too much, since both ways get you to the awesome splitter on the upper headwall. I'm not sure which start is harder, though I felt the bolted start was a touch harder than the crack climbing above.
A generous rack suggestion would be a set of stoppers, double cams from 0 TCU/C3 to .5 C4, and one .75 (you will need a hand-sized piece or two if you do the left start). A solid 5.11- leader would be fine with a single rack.