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Wrench Route  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: DF
Season: mmmmmm
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: Devin Fin on Oct 23, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

the whole run fingers to thin hands OW fist's squeeze roof jam's stemming all of it

Location 

50 yds right of Critic's choice

Protection 

1.5-#6 camlot double on the #3 camlots


Photos of Wrench Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: hammer time after the onsight FA
hammer time after the onsight FA

Comments on Wrench Route Add Comment
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By Ryan Sather
From: Boulder, CO
3 days ago
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought this was a great route and made me remember the creek isn't always about plugin' & chuggin'. I think I had preconceived ideas about the grade and being able to on-sight 5.10 in the creek, but I should have known a route named "Wrench" would pack a punch. The Wrench Route isn't necessarily a "perfect splitter" but holds some great movement and architecture. When it gets down to it is just burly climbing. The rack recommendation was pretty spot on, however, I doubled up on the #6s. I knocked out my first #6 as I climbed past the initial crux entering the chimney. Also getting to the anchor I knocking out my other #6 as I climbed past(perhaps bad technique/ fear thruching). I might recommend a Big Bro equivalent instead of doubling up on the #6s. It could help keeping the rope from pulling on your gear as you enter the chimney; just a thought. Thanks again DF for putting in the time! Looking forward to scoping out more of your routes in the future.

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