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Wrecking Ball S 

Wrecking Ball 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Alexander
Page Views: 5,750
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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Another solo...adequately named.


Just left of Hollow Man is a big roof. This climb kind of shares the start of Flamin' Freddie, but it climbs the bolted line up over the roof. The roof can be worked with flakes and underclings.


2 anchors atop the climb and 3 draws for the face.

Photos of Wrecking Ball Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Grant hangin' on for dear life
Grant hangin' on for dear life
Rock Climbing Photo: Yeah Truong yeah!
Yeah Truong yeah!
Rock Climbing Photo: dean cruxin'
dean cruxin'
Rock Climbing Photo: This is my solution to the problem
This is my solution to the problem
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam on Wrecking Ball
Sam on Wrecking Ball
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle Howell pulling the roof with his massive reac...
Kyle Howell pulling the roof with his massive reac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to pull the lip.
Trying to pull the lip.

Comments on Wrecking Ball Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 5, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 11, 2004

I finally red-pointed this climb. What a cool move. You need long arms or something to make this reach. A seriously committing climb. Excellent photo opp. Lead this climb, make the committment, enjoy the finish.
By Lee Gitlin
Jul 1, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I struggled with rating this climb, because it's all about pulling the roof, which is akin to a V3 boulder move. Otherwise, it's 5.8 before and 5.9 after the roof.Should you prefer to toprope, the anchors are easy to reach when you rap down from Hollow Man.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004

I talked to a friend of the FA, (didn't get his name though.) and he informed me that he rated it as a 5.11b. Also, he pointed out that if you hang right at the roof, it is 5.10'ish. To get the 5.11b rating, tackle the deepest part of the roof on the left. Enjoy.
By vincent pierce
Aug 6, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Feels like an .11b to me! That is a hard move even after you figure out the sequence.
By Nathan Fisher
May 3, 2005

I stayed right on this route, today, and it seemed a lot easier. I would say, if you stayed right it is probably in the 5.10a range.
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Nov 3, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

long reach but i was able to get it with ease at 5'6" with some creative foot work
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 4, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

my take is that if you use the rock to the right (Hollow Man) at all, this route is no more than ez 5.10...

yes, however, if you tackle the roof without stemming or standing on the rock to the right, it is sig. harder...probably in that ez 5.11 range for that one sequence lunge (you can just jump though)... have to really make sure (i.e. contrive) not to step over there for the harder grade...

definitely a squeeze since you would be interfering with a climber leading Hollow Man and it seems very natural to just stand on that ledge under the roof...but oh well, fun nonetheless
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
May 7, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

We met the FA guys over here the other day. His names Tim something. Anyway, look for the tick mark for the left hand coming out of the roof. I think he said 11b or c was what he graded it.
By Talia
From: SLC, UT
May 7, 2007

Met the guy who put up the route the other day, his name was Tim. After watching several people attempting and failing the roof way to get to the top, myself included, he comes along and makes it look like nothing. Good moves though, memorized them so I can say I climb 11.b. :)
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
May 7, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

^^^^^^^^^^^ we were climbing together :)
By Tea
Jul 29, 2007

Just say no to squeezeplays.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 29, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

yeah, squeezeplays aren't all that but...
i really don't have a problem with this route because of the area as a whole (and i just put another route around the corner so...)

it is definitely a squeeze job because there really isn't room for two people to climb at the same time (or three for that matter--one on FF, one on WB, and one on HM)...they would be unsafe and falling on each other or at least in eachother's way when lowering...


flip flop approach, generally sport climbs with anchors, high traffic, etc.

IMO: this route doesn't cause enough interference or detract from the crag experience here...
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I love this route, probably my favorite at Challenge. I always lose my feet reaching out of the roof, and end up campusing the next few moves, which just feels really badass.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Apr 17, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

There must be two different ways to climb this, because it is definitely a 5.11! There must be a 5.10 variation, but if you pull it how it was intended, it is a 5.11. I got beta from the dude who bolted it. It has a V3 crux. 5.10s never have that hard of moves. Well, it's hard to rate a route with a boulder problem embedded in the middle of really easy climbing.

Despite the controversy of the rating on this route, it is super fun.
By James Logan
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Not really a route, it's more of a great problem. You definately have to committ and it's a lot of fun. Make sure your belayer is paying attention other wise you become the wrecking ball. If you fall after the roof, you can actually swing into some akward breakage that will tear up your knees/shins. However, if your belay is quick and responsive, you'll swing into the perpendicular wall just above that nasty breakage.
By James Logan
Jun 26, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

FYI- Tim Alexander is the FA on this route.
By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Jul 24, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Definitely an .11 if you take the left side over the roof. Seems hard at first but work it out and find the moves. Good .10a-ish variation if you hang right. These should almost be listed as two separate routes even though they share all 3 bolts and anchors.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

You're cheating yourself out of a super sick boulder move by going right. GO LEFT! :)
By Kirk Hilton
From: Murray, UT
Sep 21, 2013

I led it for the first time today and stayed right. I'd have to agree with everyone that this right variation is a .10a. Can't wait to try the V3/.11a FA version.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

TR-able by climbing out of cave and up to the right (if you cant make the V3 boulder move). Fun, but definitely can bash your shins on the rock to the right of the climb if you mess up the crux sequence.
By Jeremy Polk
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 16, 2015

Led this thing today and have to say that the crux sequence felt safer as a lead than a TR. Not that TRing it is unsafe but there is a pretty good swing if you fall on TR. Also, I don't see how this is a squeeze at all. The nine to the left is pretty separated. Maybe if there were climbers on all three routes at once but whatever, I'm glad it's there! Super fun, and just lead it.
By Matty Coles
From: Salt Lake City
May 5, 2017

One of the funnest, short routes i've done in a while. Loved it!

By "going right" what do you all mean?

I climbed up under the roof and went right onto the ledge and then you can basically bridge over and swing up or just jump to the top of the overhang. Felt very badass! Is this the 5.10 variation everyone is talking about or do you mean the line of overhanging jugs about 5 feet to the right of the big obvious outcrop?

Either way. It's a short, one move wonder, that is a whole lot of fun!

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