Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Panther Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Battered Boyfriends T 
All Things Holy T 
Belshazzar's Fate T 
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 
Climb After Slime T 
CrazyDog's Halo T 
Eye for an Eye T 
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 
Galaxy of Tears T 
Haycrack T 
Kitten's Got Claws T 
Less Than Zero PG  T,TR 
Margin Slide T 
One for the Boys T 
Panther's Fang T 
Pioneer Anomaly T 
Predatory Instincts T 
Pride, The T 
Promised Land T 
Psalm 23 T 
Ranger on the Rock T 
Revelations T 
Rumours of War T 
Tail of Redemption T 
Watery Grave TR 
Windjammer T 
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 

Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 470'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Adam Crofoot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Aug 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Route of "Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerad"...

Description 

A tribute to the Edmund Fitzgerald and lichen so prevalent in the Adirondacks, this is a committing adventure on a stellar 470' line.

The route begins at the left-hand side of a face below a large flake and detached buttress. A huge square scoop in the face lies to its immediate left. Face climbing leads to a set of three open books, the last containing a crack where placement is critical (yellow Alien). A traverse (crux) to a seam and vertical cracks breaks a small roof before a right leaning crack with two alders and loose blocks.

An off-width crack mixes it up a bit; shimmy up the razor edge of the flake with one leg in the crack. The flake creating the crack is part of the aforementioned detached buttress. Belay slightly right from horizontal cracks above a 6 inch ledge.

Pitch two follows the left leaning OW to the lower angle face above. A network of deep fist cracks lead up to a left arching bulge above a tree-island. The third and final pitch follows up and left to an obvious chimney (10' wide) that breaks the ledges at the top. Use the face directly right of the chimney if it's too wet.

Rappel down the route.

Other Resources:
Adirondack Rock-New Routes.
Account of the FA with photos & video.
On Adirondack Almanack

Location 

175' south of the Cloudsplitter/Agharta ice route on the Agharta Wall in Panther Gorge.

Protection 

Standard rack with cams to about 3". There are no bolts or fixed gear.


Photos of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P1.
Looking down P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Crofoot on the top of the off-width.
Adam Crofoot on the top of the off-width.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie breaking the corner to trav...
Kevin MudRat MacKenzie breaking the corner to trav...

Comments on Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -