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Wrangell St. Elias NP

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University Range, The 
Wrangell Mountains, The 
Wrangell St. Elias Ice Climbing 

Wrangell St. Elias NP Rock Climbing 


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Location: 61.51609, -142.78135 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Oct 26, 2013
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Northeast face Mount St. Elias

Description 

Wrangell St. Elias National Park is 13.2 million acres of rugged wilderness that contains 18 peaks over
13,000ft tall. This park is six times the size of Yellow Stone National Park and is made up of four major mountain ranges; the Wrangell Mountains, St. Elias Range, University Range and the Bagley Ice Field. This large expanse of mountains includes peaks up to 18,000ft tall to smaller peaks that are 5,000ft tall. Due to the weather patterns and terrain this area host some of the most severe and complex weather patterns in all of the North, which also creates a very diverse type of snow-pack across the zones.

As remote as this area is, it has been explored and pioneered by the likes of Bradford Washburn, Paul and Jay Cluas, Ruedi Homberger, Danny Kost,Dave Hart.

One of the most notable adventures is Bradford Washburn and Bob Bates “Escape From Lucania.” They used McCarthy as a hub when it was still a copper mine to fly in and climb Mount Lucania. It's a epic tale of survival and human perseverance. David Roberts wrote two great books worth checking out on the history of the area; "Escape from Lucania" and "The Last of His Kind.".

The primary ski plane service in Wrangell St. Elias is the Claus family. They are the owners, operators and pilots of Ultima Thule Outfitters. Their remote lodge is far up the Chitna River, close to the Canadian border. This family knows the park inside and out, the three generations of Claus's have pioneered many landing zones, peaks, routes and rivers in the area. Paul Claus is the main pilot along with his son Jay.

Even thought Wrangell St. Elias National Park is our largest park, it has limited amenities and services, there's not even a user fee or gate to get into the park. There is no NPS search and rescue, if you are in serious trouble the military can help. But they are based in Anchorage and Fairbanks, a long ways away. Your best bet for rescue is self-rescue.

Getting There 

There are only two roads that access the park. The Nabesna road is a sixty mile dirt road on the north side of the park that lies on the north side of the Wrangell Mountains. The Nabesna road is very desolate and does not have very good access to the mountains, but along the road in the fall is a very prime spot for frozen waterfall climbing. The McCarthy road is another sixty mile dirt road that pierces into the heart of the mountains and wilderness.
The towns of Kennicott and McCarthy are located on the southern side of the Wrangell Mountains and provide a good launching pad for expeditions. There is an airstrip that three plane charter services fly out of. The towns are very seasonal and have full amenities late May thru September.
This area is a bit pricier to fly in to than the Alaska Range. The premier ski plane service is Ultima Thule Outfitters, and they have ski planes available year round. The other plane services out of McCarthy are excellent options for objectives that require a non-ski plane landing. The other option is Copper Valley Air, based out of Glennallen, this is a prime and practical location to fly into the western Wrangell Mountains.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 8.5 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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Photos of Wrangell St. Elias NP Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Northeast face Mount St. Elias with Jefferson Glac...
Northeast face Mount St. Elias with Jefferson Glac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount St. Elias 18,008 ft (5,489 m)
Mount St. Elias 18,008 ft (5,489 m)
Rock Climbing Photo: Gapers everywhere
Gapers everywhere
Rock Climbing Photo: Hard fun on St Elias with Rich Rinaldi and Bobby D...
Hard fun on St Elias with Rich Rinaldi and Bobby D...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bobby Dery ascending up to Hayden Col
Bobby Dery ascending up to Hayden Col
Rock Climbing Photo: Base to the shale ridge, SF Mt St Elias
Base to the shale ridge, SF Mt St Elias
Rock Climbing Photo: Base
Base
Rock Climbing Photo: WTF
WTF
Rock Climbing Photo: Routine glacier travel out in Wrangell St. Elias.
Routine glacier travel out in Wrangell St. Elias.
Rock Climbing Photo: Flying in to St Elias
Flying in to St Elias
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Bona and Mt Churchill in the St. Elias range fr...
BETA PHOTO: Mt Bona and Mt Churchill in the St. Elias range fr...
Rock Climbing Photo: St. Elias & Mt. Logan with the Malaspina Glacier i...
St. Elias & Mt. Logan with the Malaspina Glacier i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't gape me bro
Don't gape me bro
Rock Climbing Photo: Flying in to St Elias
Flying in to St Elias
Rock Climbing Photo: Gulf Air Taxi delivering pizza.
Gulf Air Taxi delivering pizza.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ultima Thule Outfitters "Alpha," a two s...
Ultima Thule Outfitters "Alpha," a two s...

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