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Wall of Wow
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Wow! 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cronin
Season: All. a.m. shade: p.m. sun
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: BBQ on Jun 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Lee sets up for a big move on Wow, 5.12b

Description 

This route is probably the best one on the wall. Highly sustained and super classic in the power-endurance category of shorter canyon routes. Every move is huge, superhumanly powerful, and there little or no opportunity to rest anywhere once you start hucking from hold to hold. Enjoy a balls-steep, lock-off start which leads to big, athletic reaches to huge holds on super-pumpy terrain. The route is mostly thuggy, but oddly technical, most holds need to be grabbed just right, foot placements need to be perfect, and some of the hidden holds require X-ray vision to find. And while the route isn't rocket science the sequency moves force you to draw a well thought out mental road map before you send. Instantly loved by most who dare to get on it, this route is an absolute must do for those climbers who like their overhung boulder problems to be a bit suspenseful and scary right up until the very end.

Location 

Fifth route from the right-hand side of The Wall of Wow if you don't include Short, Blake and Hard in your calculations. Look for the route in the center of a wickedly-overhung arete. Climbers start by standing on the wooden pipe. Cheater blocks of wood are provided for the shorter customers. Belayers might want to sit on the pipe, close to the wall, while the climber flails between that "scary run out" between the third and fourth bolt.

Protection 

bolts


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By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2016

Fun, tricky, pumpy, thuggy moves on mediocre rock. Pretty hard to read in the upper crux. The first bolt is uselessly low. The first three bolts are spaced very closely, while the fourth is 10+ feet past the third, resulting in unnecessary groundfall potential at the first crux. There appears to be a bent bolt stud missing a hanger between the third and fourth bolts, so maybe the nut was loosened, the bolt was whipped on when loose, and the hanger fell off or was removed. Regardless, I don't recommend getting on this route in its present state unless you are really solid or have very good health insurance.
By BBQ
Jul 5, 2016

I have fallen all over this climb and the bolts and their spacing were never an issue for me. Get on it!

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