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Wounded Knee 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Reveley & Erickson, 1974
Page Views: 770
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 14, 2002

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  • Description 

    This is a solid handcrack through a 6' roof. It is not extraordinary in and of itself, but when combined with Divine Wind and Bearcat, this pitch culminates "The Naked Edge of Boulder Canyon", a link up of three 5.11 pitches each of which is a completely different style of climbing.

    Start at the end of the crux pitch of Bearcat. Climb a few feet of uninpsiring rock to get to the crux. The crux may be figuring out how to place the #3 Camalot without blocking the best jam. Once you've taken care of this, head horizontally out the crack on good hand jams. Turn the lip and you're done.

    BETA ALERT: don't place another piece after the #3 until you've gotten a hand past the lip.

    Descent: There are no fixed anchors. Either do the 3rd class walk off or reverse (down aid) the pitch which is pretty easy since it's so short.


    A couple of small nuts and cams (e.g. green & yellow Alien) for the start, 2, 3 (key piece) and 3.5 Camalot for the crack. Medium nuts useful for the anchor.

    Comments on Wounded Knee Add Comment
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    By Joe Collins
    Oct 7, 2003

    If the jams at the start feel squirly to you (tight #3 camalot) then you'll be very unhappy if you didn't tape up. I discovered this firsthand as I left a substanial chunk of flesh in the start of the crack.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Mar 27, 2006

    Powerful and exposed, this route seems worth at least two stars! The crux roof pitch is short, but the exposure is wild, and the sustained nature of the climbing make it challenging for the grade. The 1st pitch is harder than it looks too and high quality, but Bearcat is even better.
    By Dave Holliday
    Jan 19, 2015

    This is described as a three-pitch climb in Bob D's guidebook to the canyon. We did the first two pitches as described there: climb Wildcat to its anchor, then go up a right-facing corner to a ledge, go right at an undercling (crux), then continue up to an undercling traverse heading right to another corner, go up the corner a few feet and then reach right to the Bearcat anchor. He rates it 10+ and that seemed about right; good gear the whole way (standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot).
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 23, 2015
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    The roof is pretty physical. Be ready to go for it!
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Nov 24, 2015

    The roof is really good! Should be on anyone's tick list who likes abit of groveling combined with proper horizontal crack climbing.

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