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Worthless Stud 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Derek Doucet
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: Andrew Freeman on Jul 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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  • Description 

    Tricky climbing past plentiful bolts yields to good rest before the looming roof. Climb quickly through big jugs on steep terrain to reach a hard move guarding the upper slab. Move past tricky climbing and a mono/pocket/fingerlock to reach the chains (fixed nut and another might be useful).


    Center-left of the crag. Two routes to the left of Who's Your Daddy.


    9ish Bolts. One fixed nut up top. Bring a few larger nuts if you don't want to contend with a little bit of a run out over the roof to the chains.

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    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Sep 20, 2010
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    This may actually be the best line on the Carcass Crag. Nearly flashed it but what a route! Pulling up over the lip is trickier than it seems from the ground and the finish is balancy/dicey with the fixed nut and some fiddly gear before the anchor. Need to go back and finish this....
    By Derek Doucet
    Oct 1, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Glad you liked it. Curious why the PG13 rating, though? The gear above the roof is absolutely bomber, drop-in large nuts (I've seen folks whip on them many times!) and the lower face is overbolted, IMO. I've wanted to remove one of the bolts on the face for years. Paul Hansen and I rap bolted the route, and it was desperate drilling top down on the lower face because of the roof system above. If I had it to do over again, I'd drill the lower face ground up and the roof system top down. Live and learn, I suppose: This was one of my earlier route development efforts. In any case, enjoy!
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Oct 23, 2010
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a


    PG-13 for wimpy sport climbers like me though I do agree the part up to the roof would be fine even with a bolt or two removed. Yeah the nut was kind of wigging me out on my first attempt but I am sure it is totally safe - I was a little suspicious about the flake initially. Did it today and it went pretty smooth. Nice F.A. on your part.
    By calmvschaos
    May 17, 2013

    FYI. . . no longer a fixed nut above the roof as of 5/16/13.

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