Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Worst pitch in Indian Creek now has anchors?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Dec 7, 2015
Had Broken Tooth to myself the day after Thanksgiving and found these (new?) bolts at the top of the first pitch









Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch Gingivitis new anchors?
1st pitch Gingivitis new anchors?


Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors are visible at the top of the 1st pitch
Anchors are visible at the top of the 1st pitch
ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: So, of course, this is totally me. Naturally.
Why the hell would anyone bolt that chosspile? I'm still cleaning sand out of my cooter after that misrable slog. Momoface
Joined Apr 13, 2008
80 points
Dec 8, 2015
That's what I thought when I read through the comments for the route. Seems like a waste of $20 when a 70m gets you up and down both pitches. ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: late 90's ... hammer time
Awwwww someone decided to place an anchor on top of this dumpy lil choss pile ?!?! It's mid December discuss ?!?! Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,868 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...
You think someone bailed from P1 and didn't want to leave other gear? Or just didn't have the rope to get down?
Strange to be adding anchors, which in the end require regular upkeep.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
24,851 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: late 90's ... hammer time
I bailed off this thing in the rain years ago with some down climbing ? You can make it down to the lil ramp at the start with a 60m rope... Probably Just a case of "it has anchors in the book" Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,868 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: So, of course, this is totally me. Naturally.
Bailed and happened to have a bolting kit in their car? The next person up will probably still be able to smell the fear and shame. Momoface
Joined Apr 13, 2008
80 points
Dec 9, 2015
I find it challenging to believe that someone bailed whilst climbing and happened to have bolting gear but no 70m rope to get all the way down. I mean if you climb the grovel that is pitch 1 you're going to climb the nice 2nd pitch. ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 9, 2015
probably some green plate try-hard shit themselves, and decided to cover their shame-bail in shiny bolts and rock dust. "creeksgiving" party week, and all that. clausti
Joined Dec 9, 2007
8 points
Dec 9, 2015
Ah, well that didn't take long to become a Utah vs. Colorado argument. My butt hurts a little bit. You don't own the Creek because it's within Utah borders Clausti. ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: late 90's ... hammer time
Those "try hards" strike again ! After what I saw over this past thanksgiving at the critics choice parking lot / camp with over 20 people sprawled out shooting guns!!! I dident look but had to be "green plates" ............. GO Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,868 points
Dec 9, 2015
Damn you'd think the greenies would be a little more thick skinned by now.

Devin brings up a good point about the ammosexuals though, maybe the Utah climbers can turn them against the greenies and only have one group to tolerate by this time next year.

…and maybe The Donald will solve all our other problems …
Rob T
Joined Jun 20, 2006
26 points
Dec 9, 2015
Perhaps we greenies should have thicker skin. Mine is fairly thick but I still think it's petty to promote the whole interstate argument. Maybe Clausti's just petty. Dunno. ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: So, of course, this is totally me. Naturally.
I can't take any credit, I'm just a white plate transplant like the rest of them, and before that the original green plate of VeeTee. Momoface
Joined Apr 13, 2008
80 points
Dec 9, 2015
Admittedly I'm fairly new to the proj and to the utah/Colorado pissing contest so what is the preferred counter to "greenie"? Will "Utard" suffice? ; ) ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: beaz-pack
It was probably the same kid who put up these choss boulders . Don't let me derail the CO vs UT argument, though. They're my favorite. ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
759 points
Dec 11, 2015
Curious if it was the FA party? Or if whoever did place the bolts contacted the FA party? There's a guy in Yosemite currently taking a hammering on MP and Super topo for adding midway anchors in the Valley. ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 11, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Damien
I was at Critic's Choice just before Turkeyday, and there were people who had just drilled lots of holes. They bolted the slab boulder at the top of the approach, and also bolted the chimney behind the pillar just right of Critic's Choice. The new plaque said "Bolt's Before Bros", but apparently it was already an established route, complete with its own pre-existing plaque. I also saw some new bolted anchors I assume to be their's, 30 feet or less off the ground, made with neon green webbing. It seemed to be unnecessarily visible. Shelton Hatfield
Joined Apr 18, 2011
585 points
Dec 11, 2015
Really? Neon Green? ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
Dec 11, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...
Shelton Hatfield wrote:
I was at Critic's Choice just before Turkeyday, and there were people who had just drilled lots of holes. They bolted the slab boulder at the top of the approach, and also bolted the chimney behind the pillar just right of Critic's Choice. The new plaque said "Bolt's Before Bros", but apparently it was already an established route, complete with its own pre-existing plaque. I also saw some new bolted anchors I assume to be their's, 30 feet or less off the ground, made with neon green webbing. It seemed to be unnecessarily visible.

Well when you say "but apparently it was already an established route" what do you mean? What made that apparent?
Because if it's more than 'apparent' it isn't that hard to rap off of the higher anchors to remove the lower, and a plaque is pretty easy to make go away.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
24,851 points
Dec 11, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Damien
Tony B wrote:
Well when you say "but apparently it was already an established route" what do you mean? What made that apparent? Because if it's more than 'apparent' it isn't that hard to rap off of the higher anchors to remove the lower, and a plaque is pretty easy to make go away.



I say "apparently" because I didn't see the old plaque. I just saw the protection bolts in the chimney with fresh rock dust, and the new plaque. A few days later, an acquaintance who went to Critic's Choice told me he saw the old plaque, and was upset that the established route had been retro-bolted. Its not a matter of removing a new anchor, since the climb still finishes at the top of the pillar that forms the chimney.

And I didn't mean to imply that the neon green anchor was at the top of this chimney. The new neon green anchors were at the top of other shorty pillar climbs.
Shelton Hatfield
Joined Apr 18, 2011
585 points
Dec 11, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: late 90's ... hammer time
Rock Climbing Photo: This is one of the  three new routes ... This pile...
This is one of the three new routes ... This pile will kill some one ! The top 4 feet moved on me wen I jammed it!!!! The bottled chimney in question was put up in 2006 an is called Bro's before hols ...... Who ever did this bolting has a skewed moral compass wen it comes to route development in the creek...
Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,868 points
Dec 11, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: So, of course, this is totally me. Naturally.
Hey, never get between a boy and his drill, I guess.

But srsly....wtf? Now that I have this job to look at, the Gingivitis anchors just seem like a boy scout civic deed compared to that junk show.
Momoface
Joined Apr 13, 2008
80 points
Dec 11, 2015
This is what happens when people are left to their own devices and no controls. They go out and do stupid things. I'm curious if this bolting gone wild and the wild west firearm activities involve the same crowd. ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.