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worst anchors ever....
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Feb 1, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: the dragon's tail, or dragon's tooth, or whatever....
Wei-Ming wrote:
In the winds, found this rapping off of Wolf's Head. They probably had a single 60m - we had doubles and made it down to a far superior rap station. Actually doesn't look too bad, if I had to I'd use it


Wait, I'm confused. If it didn't look too bad, how does it fit into the world's worst anchors thread?
MegaGaper2000
From Indianola, Wa
Joined Apr 6, 2011
25 points
Feb 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Birds and Beards






Some of the beautiful anchors to be found on the face of leaning tower below the traversing approach ledge.
kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
304 points
Feb 3, 2012
It Makers a pretty good anchor.


Rock Climbing Photo: bonus anchor
bonus anchor
Matthew Kennedy
From boulder, co
Joined Apr 29, 2006
51 points
Feb 7, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Nameless boulder on the edge of the Holy Boulders ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Retrievable Rappel Anchor
Retrievable Rappel Anchor


And also great:

www3.telus.net/public/7394243/...
Lorenzo Tragen
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 23, 2011
174 points
Feb 7, 2012
^-- I think your system is kinda sketch, having the tagline go through your webbing is a noobish thing, just tie a 8 on a bight and put it on the quicklink and you will be fine. ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Apr 27, 2010
275 points
Feb 8, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: the fridge leavenworth
Found this in a thread a few months ago.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sketch
Sketch
Hmann2
Joined Mar 10, 2011
33 points
Feb 8, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: On Red Wall at Smith
Hmann2 wrote:
Found this in a thread a few months ago.


I love that there are two biners on that spaghetti can. But the main issue with the anchor is that the can is not redundant. They must have had a second can that they could have thrown in there as a backup. Cheapskates.

Gotta be careful, you know.
Yair Horowitz
Joined Jul 29, 2011
237 points
Feb 8, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: On Blanca after traversing from LB

3 nails as a rappel anchor on the Pawnee Buttes in NE Colorado.
Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 9, 2010
1,130 points
Feb 26, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: pinches on So High
dont get me wrong, it is a bomber anchor... but overkill much?
Rock Climbing Photo: Ridiculous amount of webbing for rappel up in Tahq...
Ridiculous amount of webbing for rappel up in Tahquitz, CA
NDTitanLady
Joined Mar 8, 2011
318 points
Feb 26, 2012
On the first page of this thread there was a reply that had two photos.

The poster used this photo as a 'bad' anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Very Bad Anchor
Very Bad Anchor


The poster then used this photo as the 'fixed,' now 'bomber,' anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Not Much Better Anchor
Not Much Better Anchor


Unfortunately, the 'fixed' anchor has a major flaw in it's design. It is bad practice to 'hitch' or fix the rappel ring in a single position, especially if it is an aluminum ring as is the case here. If you fix the position of the rappel ring it will wear much faster than if you leave it loose on the cord or webbing.

The correct way to 'fix' the anchor is to just pass the cord through the ring.
Bruce Hildenbrand
Joined Apr 18, 2003
1,166 points
Feb 26, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: mawiage
Brian C. wrote:
3 nails as a rappel anchor on the Pawnee Buttes in NE Colorado.


no fucking way.... wow...
the Oracle
From Delphi
Joined May 19, 2011
30 points
Feb 26, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the belay on bear creek spire
Rock Climbing Photo:  A little rusty.
A little rusty.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ouch!
Ouch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Hardware horror Show
Hardware horror Show
Rock Climbing Photo: Found in San Francisco
Found in San Francisco

Rock Climbing Photo: This one happened the first time they tried to cle...
This one happened the first time they tried to clean the windows at a new building next to mine, all survived.

Look close at the last one. You can see the left support dangling and the right is pretty tweaked. One of the window washer suffered a broken arm and the other cuts and bruises.
Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
775 points
Jun 6, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: avatar
This is a fun thread! I think this site deserves a place here


Jive-Ass Anchors


There are some real jive-ass anchors in this thread.
Dingus
Joined Dec 11, 2011
64 points
Jun 7, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the belay on bear creek spire
mountainproject.com/v/10803189... Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
775 points
Jun 7, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Birch Tree Crack 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: Ring
Ring
MattClimbsHigh
Joined Jan 30, 2008
167 points
Jun 11, 2013
Posted this somewhere else before but was it was so bad it deserves to be in this thread.
Was climbing Moby Grape on Cannon some twenty years ago with a partner when we were joined at a belay ledge by the leader of a more "experienced" party of three. He puts in one Loweball and belays his partners up. We were horrified but not as much as they were. The argument that ensued was fun to watch. We gladly let them climb thru. Sorry no pics but you really should not need one.
Mark Lynch
Joined Apr 10, 2013
5 points
Jun 14, 2013
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:
Unfortunately, the 'fixed' anchor has a major flaw in it's design. It is bad practice to 'hitch' or fix the rappel ring in a single position, especially if it is an aluminum ring as is the case here. If you fix the position of the rappel ring it will wear much faster than if you leave it loose on the cord or webbing. The correct way to 'fix' the anchor is to just pass the cord through the ring.


Maybe anyone who can't figure out how to rotate the ring around a bit should let someone else set up the rappel?
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,648 points
Jul 8, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: ducking ropes at Copper
Found this gem at the top of the east face of monitor rock on Independence pass
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor on east face of monitor
Anchor on east face of monitor


Rock Climbing Photo: Sketch
Sketch
ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
289 points
Aug 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: If you look closely you'l see that tricam is place...
If you look closely you'l see that tricam is placed backwards with the webbing folded over the nose.


I saw someone belaying his friends up a 5.7 approach to a crag on this anchor. Somehow he works as a guide. He wasn't working at the time, but it's scary that I asked about it and he thought it was bomber.

The tricam is placed backwards with the webbing folded over the nose, and the nut in the lower leg is behind a loose block.

Good thing no one fell.
Will.S
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jun 6, 2014
81 points
Aug 6, 2014
Will.S wrote:
I saw someone belaying his friends up a 5.7 approach to a crag on this anchor. Somehow he works as a guide. He wasn't working at the time, but it's scary that I asked about it and he thought it was bomber. The tricam is placed backwards with the webbing folded over the nose, and the nut in the lower leg is behind a loose block. Good thing no one fell.


I hope the triaxial loaded carabiner and the linked non-locking 'biners are not SOP for the "guide" either.
MojoMonkey
Joined Jan 29, 2009
85 points
Aug 6, 2014
MojoMonkey wrote:
I hope the triaxial loaded carabiner and the linked non-locking 'biners are not SOP for the "guide" either.


Unfortunately, I think they might be. I was only pointing out the problems that weren't immediately obvious.
Will.S
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jun 6, 2014
81 points
Aug 6, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy Lieback
In Yosemite last fall I saw two dyneema runners girthed to different 2" arms of the same 4" Manzanita bush about 20 feet from a cliff edge, poorly equalized to two O&O non-lockers (the best part of the whole setup), to a 4-foot dyneema runner to a single non-locker, to a RATTY DAISY CHAIN, to another single non-locker, to a single strand of 7mm cordalette to a single locker through which their TR was running. The only knots in the whole setup were at either end of the cordy. I wish I had taken a photo but I was too horror-stricken to think of it. Baumer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2009
206 points
Aug 6, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: dirt bagging around cody
Rock Climbing Photo: Aluminum snow picket just jammed in a chossy crack...
Aluminum snow picket just jammed in a chossy crack. Nepal doesnt safety


This was in Nepal. Snow picket just hammered into a crack and still tied at the end. It was placed by a guide too.
Nate K
From Richmond, VT
Joined Jul 1, 2012
219 points
Aug 7, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Bocan
Loren Tragen wrote:


Not to digress...but this is quality info here.

If you have to do more than one rappel to reach the ground, you'll want to be able to see your next station as you descend. Tie knots into the end of your rope and then rappel face first, keeping a keen eye out for the next set of anchors.

If you pass the anchors accidentally, get your friend to phone for a helicopter rescue.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
1,377 points
Aug 7, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC
Nate K wrote:
This was in Nepal. Snow picket just hammered into a crack and still tied at the end. It was placed by a guide too.


Shameful. The minimum standard is clearly a stainless steel picket.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
517 points


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