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The Sentinel - West Face
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Flared Bear T 
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Worms in Your Brain T 

Worms in Your Brain 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Mayville, Bob Gaines 1993
Season: Gets early afternoon sun briefly
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: john durr on Jan 21, 2014

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Description 

Is it better to lead or follow traversing routes?

This route starts far past Illusion Dweller across from Bikini-Whale.

Make an approach through a thicket to a left arching flake with a hand crack, mantle a cool block and go left past 3 closely spaced bolts. Gain a fantastic horizontal rail and traverse left past a couple more bolts to a bolted belay/rap anchor.

This is the first pitch of the six pitch route New Latitude 5.12a by the same hard man team.

Location 

Sentinel West Face, a ways right of Rubberfat. Go to Bikini Whale, turn around and face the Sentinel.

Protection 

Draws and a handful of TCU's in the finger to thin finger size. A large cam could work to protect the move onto the block if needed but a small cam goes just a little lower.


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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 22, 2014

feel free to move the bolt.....oopsie if it's in the wrong place;..I'm totally OK w/a move!.......(It's a cool route..).
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 22, 2014

FA;...Todd Gordon, Jim Angione...(we couldn't free the crux move)....FFA; Mayville/Gaines......