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Wormhole 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 237
Submitted By: dmPete on Jun 21, 2015

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Wormhole, the very obvious wide crack.

Description 

Looking up at this intimidating, overhung offwidth crack, it might be hard to believe that "Wormhole" is only rated 5.9...but it really is.

The first 40 feet are as rough as they look. It's a grovelly haul, and the crux of the whole route comes in the first 10 feet of the climb. This first crack is a shared start with "Stargate."

Reach the ledge, shake out, walk to the back of the ledge and ascend the fantastic second half of this line. Stem, jam, use face holds, layback off the ceiling, it's all good, and it's really all there. Incredibly fun movement, and secure stances for placing big gear!

Pull the lip with a little trickery, and wedge yourself into the the widest portion of the crack 15 feet from the top. Spend a few moments worming your way up to the end, anchors on the left.

Location 

Five feet to the right of "Event Horizon," just past the blunt, rounded arete. The long, offwidth crack that ends in an exaggerated overhang near the top of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 3" on the lower half, to 5" for the upper half, doubles of most would be helpful. Bolted anchors, shared with Event Horizon and Stargate.


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By dmPete
Jun 21, 2015

The top half of this route takes a lot of big gear. We used a 5", two 3" and one 4" cam and protected it sparingly...it could definitely take a piece or two more. This protected only from the ledge to the lip of the overhang. The last moves on the vertical face at the top could probably take a 5" or 6" cam, or you could borrow the top bolt from Event Horizon/Stargate and use a long sling.

Second half of this route is so fun it makes the slog up the first half worth doing! And it's nowhere near as tough as it looks!

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