REI Community
Cactus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affluenza S 
Afterburner S 
Agave S 
Alexi's Climb S 
Alignment, The S 
Almost French S 
Almost Gothic S 
Amiga S 
Are You Experiential? S 
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 
Axis of Evil S 
Banana Split S 
Barbed Wire Love S 
Beach Ball S 
Beef Cake Formula S 
Bionic Minnow S 
Black Slabbeth S 
Blackman's Burden S 
Blade Runner S 
Blarney Stone, The S 
Blond Princes S 
Bombodido S 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 
Bur-Har-Bur S 
Cactus Cliff Addict S 
Candy for Big Kids S 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 
Cellulite District T,TR 
Centurion Enigma S 
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 
Child's Play S 
Chompin' at the Cholla S 
Christmas Tree S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Cobra S 
Commitment S 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 
Crimpson Candy S 
Critic's Choice S 
Cro-Magnum S 
Crynoid Corner S 
Cure For The Common Crimp S 
Da Fly S 
Dances with Cholla S 
Dereliction Affliction S 
Dihedrus S 
Divinity School S 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 
Early Bird S 
Escalando S 
Et Tu, Brutus S 
Fantasia S 
Fast Food Nation S 
Fiscal Cliff S 
Fishisms T 
Flight of the Phoenix S 
French Are Here, The S 
Fully Equipped S 
Funkdemental S 
Gabby S 
Glass Babies S 
Glue Slippage S 
Good Red Road, The S 
Gravitations S 
Great Expectations S 
Hair Trigger S 
Half Breed S 
Hero Driver S 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 
Hot Beach S 
Hurricane Hinzi S 
I Claudius S 
I Lean S 
I'm Having A Vision S 
Ian's Climb S 
Illegal Smile S 
Impulsive Hands S 
Institutional Meat S 
Jamuary S 
Joy of Cholla, The S 
Jumpin' the Gun S 
Just Thesenga It S 
Kalahari Sidewinder S 
Killer Toupee, The T,S 
King Louie's Traverse S 
Kipu Pockets  S 
Kodachrome S 
La Temperatura de Shelf S 
LaCholla Jackson S 
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 
Legend on the Fall S 
Leisure Class S 
Manly Bulges S 
Midget Toss S 
Misalignment S 
Morning Joe S 
Mr. Fred T,TR 
Muscle Beach S 
New Ethics S 
New World Order S 
Ol' 47 S 
Oscar de la Cholla S 
Out There Take Anything S 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 
Part Muffalo S 
Pick Pocket S 
Politically Incorrect S 
Poquito Mas S 
Puff Daddy S 
Purple Corner T 
Quarterback S 
Quasi Quasar S 
Raven, The S 
Reach Around, The S 
Red Eclipse S 
Red Giant T 
Redman's Burden S 
Relampago S 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 
Risky Business S 
Shelf Pride S 
Short Man's Burden S 
Six More Bottles of Bosco S 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 
Slicer S 
Solar Eclipse S 
Southern Belle S 
Spray Lord S 
Squeeze the Moment S 
Stand, The S 
Super Suka S 
Sweet Sam S 
Third Stage S 
Three-Quarter Ton S 
Thumbs Up S 
Tits Up S 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 
Total Recount S 
Totally Blonde S 
Turkey's Bleak T 
Two For One S 
Under A Blood Red Wall S 
Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 
Usual Suspects, The S 
Utter To A Scream S 
Wadsworth Boulevard S 
White Punks on Pockets S 
Whiteman's Burden S 
Working Man S 
World Peace S 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 

World Peace 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,325
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
"Mike" just below the business on World ...


Listed at 12b/c in the Sharpend guide, this line is far easier. Considering the FFA was done on gear, with a huge runout through the crux, perhaps the inflated grade is understandable. In any case, this is a high quality line with great stone and some nice pockets.

Begin with an easy scramble to a nice slab. Cruise the slab to the break, where the angle steepens. Follow the dihedral to another break, and a monolithic wall of dark stone. Sharper pockets and crimps surmount the imposing headwall.

EDIT: note that the grade of this route was originally reported as 12a, under the name "Mark & Mark Route", and was published in Van Horn's 1999 guide as "11d or 12a".


It is at the far left end of Cactus, ascending the middle of three bolt lines on the inset panel right of the "Jumpin' the Gun" arete.


9 brown Fixe bolts to 2BA.

Photos of World Peace Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben with impeccable belay technique.  Photo: Travi...
Ben with impeccable belay technique. Photo: Travi...
Rock Climbing Photo: World Peace ascends the line of brown hangers left...
World Peace ascends the line of brown hangers left...

Comments on World Peace Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent route with fun climbing. Cool crux bulge where the main difficulty is narrowing down the options. I'm surprised the loose flake is still there, in the lower section. Kind of spooky and hard to avoid.
By Mark Rolofson
Nov 20, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The original line was rated .11d/12a, but it traversed right below the crux. I retrobolted this line in Fall 2002 with the direct finish. The line now takes is harder than the original. I disagree it's only .12a. It seemed like solid .12b, and I redpointed it twice. I got the opinion of several climbers around 2003, who thought it was .12b. It seemed much harder than Eutopia at the Vault, Freeform, or The Gym Arête. It is definitely not as pumpy as Heavy Weather, but the crux moves are considerably harder. It has been quite a few years since I climbed it. The flake did concern me, but I did not think it was loose at the time, rather just an expanding flake. If it moves, perhaps it should be removed. It should also be noted that the route has 9 protection bolts.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2016

A very good route as I found it to be as good as some 3 star classics. I'm learning that the star rating system at Shelf seems to be very subjective. I just keep running into more and more 2 star routes that are better than the 3 star classics I have already done....

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About