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World Leader Pretend S 

World Leader Pretend 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 950
Submitted By: Bill Ballace on May 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

This is the route immediately to the right of Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth. It climbs the obvious black streak. This is an awsome route!

Protection 

11 bolts to bolted ancor


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By Brady Robinson
Sep 8, 2009

Best route I did in the area.
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Aug 8, 2017

Not a typical Ten Sleep climb. Less than vertical 10+ climbing with healthy bolt spacing to the first break gets your attention at the start. An unnecessary runout to the chains at the top (although it could be also be argued adding a bolt is also unnecessary as the last five feet to the chains are 5.10. Getting your feet under you after the final boulder problem checks in at mid 5.11 and the last bolt will be 4-5 feet under your feet.) Clean fall looking at a 30+ footer if you blow it at the chains.

A/B is probably spot on.

A if you are a boulderer

B if easy enduro pocket pulling is your thing. The steep sections on this are cruxy.

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