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The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Keep, The T 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 
Working Wives S,TR 

Working Wives 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bob Martin
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Sep 28, 2014

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Description 

Start on the ledge and climb up the left-facing corner(as for Prince.) At the top of the corner, move left onto the face/slab and a line of bolts. Climb up to the left end of an overlap, and move left onto a steep bulgy slab. The crux is around this part: high-step moves on desperately small crimps. After the crux move up and left and onto an outside corner/arete thing with a bolt. Move up it and right(possible trad gear around this section) and onto better holds on another face. Continue up past an overlap to a fixed anchor.

Location 

Same as for Prince. Left end of the wall atop a ledge below a complicated left-facing corner. You can do it on TR when rappeling from Prince. To lower off and rappel you need a 70m rope.

Protection 

7 bolts. There may be some small trad gear in the middle and upper section of the route. Fixed anchor on top: 2 bolts with some fixed tat to rap from.

Descent 

With a 70m rope and some rope stretch, it's possible to rappel and also to lower off of the fixed tat atop this climb. Watch your ends. Otherwise you need two ropes to get off.


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