|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 550'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||M. Nuttleman, B. Collett, August 2012|
|Submitted By:||Ben Collett on Aug 18, 2012|
|Comments on Work-Life Balance||Add Comment|
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By doug haller
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Climbed this yesterday:
P1: locating the start for most Tan Buttress routes remains a challenge. Look for the flakes on P2 from the base of Lazy Sunday/Anniversary Route.... For this route, select a line that will put you on the left side of the pedestal - a large block with greenery , on the left, at the base of an OW. P1 tops out on the block/pedestal.
P2: seriously consider breaking this pitch into two shorter ones. Add a belay above the flakes and before the corner. Rope management/drag is an issue. Details - first, know that I am neither tall nor particularly gifted, getting off the pedestal requires some walking on grass with a long reach, slippery when wet. Getting into the undercling was awkward or I was having a bad day. Gear above the first flake is sparse. Flake #2 is wafer thin - think Wheat Thin (Yosemite). The final corner is slightly overhanging and damp, gear is fair. Step right at the top to gain a ledge. Run it out 30 feet +/- (5.8) to a pair of cracks for a comfortable belay.
P3: mind the thistle mantle.
P4: a selection of cracks and fins consolidates/pinches down to a flake with large chickenheads. Gear size and options varies throughout, so save some pieces of 0.5-1.5 for the upper flake.
P5: rather than straight up, we followed blocky steps to a grassy ledge system up and right.