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Woolly Clam Taco 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Gary Terpening and Joe Bridges 1989
Page Views: 939
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Simon TRing Woolly Clam Taco


Start the same as Easter Time Too, with hands 10 feet up traverse left to the small 3 foot high left facing corner capped by a pebble covered overhang, follow the crack up and right to another small left facing corner, go up passing a frisbee-sized area of orange rock, move up and left to a ledge before traversing left to the Day Tripper oak tree rap station.


Same as Easter Time Too.


I toproped the route belayed from a rope set up on the belay tree for Day Tripper with a substantial directional anchor set up 20 feet right of the belay tree. The gear looks difficult to place and consists largely of micro nuts with a few pebbly horizontals available for more substantial gear. This looks like a scary lead with little protection available to prevent ground fall until after climbing through 15 feet of 5.9 territory.

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By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

I led this a while back and have not tried to repeat it. There's a good yellow alien at your feet for the first hard move, then 20 or so feet of difficult climbing "protected" some really manky c3s in a shallow flare and very small brassies.
By David Stowe
Feb 20, 2012

Its been a few years, but I remember being pretty happy with the brassies that I got in on this. There were 3 or 4 of them along the way, all pretty good.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
May 6, 2013

Is this a different climb from "Earth Girls Are Easy" in Todd Swain's guide? From description seems to be the same except that Swain has you traverse to the Eastertime anchors at the top.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 22, 2014

We TR'd after leading Eastertime too. On TR, it felt soft for a 10. Some nice technical moves for this shorty.
By SethG
May 8, 2014

If you do this route as described above (i.e., going up ten feet before moving left) it may be protected and a little easier-- but if you want to you can keep it completely independent of Easter Time Too, there is a good hard move on small sharp crimps with poor feet to get up to the small corner beneath the crux. The problem is that there's no gear for this hard low move. I think you could protect it by climbing up and placing pro on Easter Time Too, then climbing down and starting over, doing the moves on WCT.

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