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Woogie's Wild Ride S 

Woogie's Wild Ride 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 6, 2006

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Moving into the crux sequence. October 2011.

Description 

Starts out with slabby face moves past 3 bolts to a nice rest. From here figure out how to clip the 4th bolt on runout but easy ground. Traverse left past 3 more spaced bolts to the crux bulge, with tightly spaced bolts. Rest up for the final awkward overhang and pass one more bolt to the anchor. Solid at the grade, and a wild ride for a 5.11.

Edit 4/6/15 Re-climbed this again, and as mentioned below a foothold has broken at the crux, making the moves significantly harder and quite reach intensive. A right hand crimp may have broken off as well. I'm guessing it's at least 11d, and maybe a bit harder.

Location 

Right Side of the Grotto Entrance. Just to the right of Class Act and Bong Crack.

Protection 

11 Bolts to Anchors


Photos of Woogie's Wild Ride Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: As they say, "Crimpin' ain't easy." Marc...
As they say, "Crimpin' ain't easy." Marc...

Comments on Woogie's Wild Ride Add Comment
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By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008

This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler. I believe Mark was the driving force and is credited with the FA.
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

This is correct, Mark Thomas climbed the FA.
By Amy Jordan
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A fun climb and airy, exhilarating lead. Really neat route. Only the big ledge in the middle keeps it from being 4 stars, in my opinion, but all the climbing on it is fantastic.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I don't think a 50m rope would work for this route, as I was pretty close to the ends of my 60m when I lowered off.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I got on this route last Saturday. The movement throughout was excellent, but the crux seems to have changed a bit. The bit of rock marked with 'Xs' in the photo (see link below) is gone. It was cleary glued on at some point as there is still a large swath of glue left on the rock. There was also quite a bit of dirt on the remnants of the hold which is now just an extension of the "ledge" feature below the crux. The dirt was obviously left over from when the hold broke, so it might have been fairly recent. I cleaned it off as it was rather annoying.

Although it is not too hard to get into position for the crux, it seems that the missing feature would have been a pretty key foothold for getting through this portion of the climb. This presumably awesome route has now been relegated to the status of a "one-move wonder". The route still goes, but I think it's a bit harder than 5.11b.

mountainproject.com/images/0/5...
By William Penner
From: The 505
Sep 18, 2012

I love the semi-regular updates from Diablo about holds or sections of wall falling off and the glue and dirt left behind. Quality and hilarious.

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