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Woody Woodpecker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Don Reid and Ron Skelton - Jan. 1985
Season: Winter
Page Views: 826
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Woody Woodpecker from the rap. Great crack.

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  • Description 

    This climb can be seen from Hyw 140. Look for a white section of granite with two cracks in it forming Woody's beak. The climbing is excellent and the thin hands section is awesome.


    Follow approach to Stonequest. Traverse west along the base to the far end of the cliff. Look up high for a diagonal crack splitting beautiful granite. How you get to the base is up to you. Either pass the crack and work your way up and east, or climb a two pitch bolted line to the ledge below Woody Woodpecker.


    Standard rack plus extra thin hands to cups. Bring long slings for the zig-zag nature of the climb as well as the top section. Rap to the right off of a newly bolted anchor with one 70m rope.

    Photos of Woody Woodpecker Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Cockshead, showing Woody Woodpecker and Sawyer...
    BETA PHOTO: The Cockshead, showing Woody Woodpecker and Sawyer...

    Comments on Woody Woodpecker Add Comment
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    By Osprey Overhang
    From: ...
    Dec 11, 2009

    There is a two pitch bolted route (.10a) directly below The Woodpecker. Climbing this route is probably the best way to access Woody's belay ledge. You can also use the rappel anchors on this route to get back to the ground. Do this in two raps with one 70m rope.
    By Ryan Huetter
    From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
    Dec 13, 2009

    Climbed in one long pitch, it´s first half is really fun crack climbing with a green/red camalot traverse (think Airy Interlude), but the second half is pretty mungy grainy run-out climbing til you hit the anchor ledge. The bolta are nice new beefy 3/8ths.
    By Bonesaw
    From: CA
    Oct 8, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    Definitely worth doing! The crack is super clean... just wish it were longer. Getting to the crack from the ledge is dirty and a bit runout. Getting to the belay anchors from the crack is also a bit dirty and runout, although the climbing is easier there.
    By Kurt Jensen
    From: Aptos,CA
    Feb 9, 2014

    The two pitch bolted route below Woody can be easily led as 1 pitch. I skipped the intermediate anchor and this makes it a nice longer slab pitch.

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